One couldn’t ask for a beautiful Sunday in Milan this morning, and the Marni fall/winter show was the perfect compliment to the beautiful weather. I will have to be brief and type quickly in all my reviews today, though. The shows are packed together rather tightly in an effort to get done a couple of hours earlier than normal. Please excuse my lack of prose. I’ll try to hit the high points.
Big this season for Marni is fur. I know that disappoints a lot of younger US buyers, but it is a reality for Europe. The big difference for this collection is that they come in some of the brightest colors I’ve seen in quite a while. One full-length coat on which fur was dyed in blue and burnt orange spots looked rather like someone had skinned a Dr. Seuss characters. For some ensembles the fur stole is easily left out, which may actually improve the look.
Colors are huge. Primary colors especially. This is a very bright collection given the season. One small block pattern contains so many colors that my eyes actually had difficulty focusing for a moment. The effect was … interesting.
Folds, of course, are a Marni staple and are used exceptionally well in most cases. What she does with some of the coats is especially amazing. On the down side, she falls back on peplum folds a little more often than my personal taste enjoys. I’m rather over peplum this season and would rather see more creativity in that regard.
Prints are not something we usually see in abundance with Marni, but there are a few here that are quite striking. The most impressive of the group is a quilted rose pattern that stands out quite dramatically.
Silhouettes are, of course, large. Marni hasn’t given up minimalism and that fullness is a large part of what makes the collection so popular. One can wear these clothes without needing to diet for weeks before. What we see toward the end, though, are some tribal layers that actually give shape and texture to the Marni look. This is very different and I’m curious as to whether it may signal a fundamental change.
Biggest surprise: those tribal looks at the end. We’re not accustomed to seeing this level of texture and detailing from Marni. This is not minimalism at this point, though I’m not going to dare try to give it a name. The look is very attractive and one I hope is pursued in the future.
Most curious element: That hair. Not sure what’s going on there. Model’s hair looked as though they had been doused with a bottle of product and then just left alone. I can see perhaps using this look for editorial purposes, but try this in real life and people are going to point and stare.
Cutest moment: After the final walk, Consuelo Castiglioni just barely peeks out from behind a panel, smiles, and disappears. She is so tiny and sweet, rather like a little hummingbird flitting around backstage. I couldn’t help but smile.
This is an interesting collection that even those who are not big fans of Marni may want to check out. There is a lot here that is wearable and may actually fit in with your current wardrobe. Look for it this fall.