Welcome to London! After eight days of New York, the change of scenery is welcome even if the pace is as hectic as ever. London is just a different atmosphere. The weather isn’t too terribly bad yet today, fairly warm and cloudy. It’s Friday, so there are fish and chips to be had and everyone seems to be in a bit of a festive mood as London Fashion Week kicks off. Shows in London are so much more organized than the other three cities, almost to the point of being rather straightforward. Too bad we’re only here for five days.
Starting us off this season is Korean-born designer Eudon Choi. I’ve not reviewed his collection in a couple of seasons, so I felt he was due today and I was rather pleased with what I saw. Choi isn’t terribly dramatic, though his fur-topped shoes did cause a bit of a ripple through the audience. For the most part, though, what he gives us are attractive looking clothes that have plenty of style without being difficult to wear. One can pull most of Choi’s ensembles out of the closet and have them on in a minute’s time. There aren’t a lot of complicated pieces and the looks are straightforward enough that one doesn’t have to guess which is the front or back.
By no means does that make Choi’s clothes boring. His silhouettes are full, but the way he works a gentle curve across a garment gives an illusion of shape and movement. His color blocking is asymmetrical and shifts visual waistlines from high to low as one looks from one side of a dress to another. Sweaters have panels with ribs running in different directions. Pleats on one side of a blouse match up with the pleats in the skirt, but only half of either is pleated.
Choi’s choice of prints are a little interesting. He doesn’t use too many of them, but the ones he does use seem a bit dated. I’m pretty sure my mother had a geometric print dress similar to what is seen in this collection, and the circular print might remind one of the bubbles in a lava lamp, assuming one is old enough to remember lava lamps. Solids are really the strength of the collection, and I am especially fond of the black numbers scattered throughout the line.
Getting the attention of the fashion world has been a challenge for Choi, but his was the only show that Vogue carried live this morning. That says something positive, I believe. There were no fireworks, no big production, but Eudon Choi delivered a solid women’s wear collection that provides a very good start to this fashion week in London.