Recently, the IFC had the opportunity to hear from fashion maven Fran Yoshioka about what to expect for the Fall 2012 season. French Pharmacie was kind enough to allow us to meet in their space, ensuring that both Fran and the attendees were able to enjoy a delightful and informative evening.
For Fran, the keyword for all Fall 2012 collections is beauty, transcending the typical notions of romantic or feminine styles. She emphasized the need for retailers and designers to focus on the basics, and then to embellish them: “We must surprise, astonish, and once again grab their attention.”
Color-wise, 2011 was the year when brown reigned supreme; Fran sees 2012 as the year of a resurgent grey-focused aesthetic (think multiple shades of grey, checks, stripes, and “enticingly neutral color combinations”). Brown will not disappear completely, but rather become more mixed with “cosmetic tints of pink and rose and golden shades.” The brightest colors of the season will be found in “plumage” (Fran’s exquisite term for “brilliant jewel colors”) and the return of teal and vermillion (“candy apple reds” – shiny and lacquered).
As far as designers’ influences go, Fran honed in on five particular descriptors: androgyny, wilderness, Navajo, 70’s grunge, and 60’s mod. She described the androgynous aspect of 2012 as a celebration of “the beauty of living in the grey.” With models like Andrej Pejic confidently taking over the international runways, it is clear that this “radical neutrality” is fast becoming a fashion staple. The influence of a rugged wilderness look is found in the raw and rustic detailing, knit, tweeds, and plaids (as well as bits of “fur, toggles, and zips”). The jacket of the season? – anoraks or parkas. The Navajo western style is seen in the “graphic patterns,” fringe, suede, and leather (but, be careful not to make it “too costume-y”). The combination of the 70’s and the grunge era (drawing on Marc Jacobs’ 1993 Perry Ellis show) will result in a design that favors wide-leg pants, culottes, and midi/maxi dress lengths (for example, wearing a maxi coat over a pair of hot shorts). The 60’s mod trend pulls much of its inspiration from a few of Fran’s fashion favorites: Twiggy and Jean Shrimpton. Expect to see an abundance of geometric patterns, “dots, color blocking, paneling, and contrast sleeves.”
A few last bits from the Trend Report: Sweaters are going to be sheer (or utilizing openwork stitching), sleeveless/short-sleeved, and metallic (she re-emphasized this several times: “Do metallic early!”). Round shoulders and sleeves will continue. Waistlines will be either dropped a bit lower or done away with altogether. High necks are a must (turtlenecks, etc). Kimono-style minimalism will be a prominent fashion feature. As for bottoms, the “crop carrot trouser” is essential. And, lastly, Fran’s final message regarding the Fall 2012 season: “Sparkle.”
Images courtesy of Marc McCoy.