Andrew Gn makes me smile. He likes to market himself and his label as a bit radical, unexpected, and unconventional. Yet, season after season he consistently provides one of the most reliable collections in Paris. We know he’s going to be heavy on graphics and prints. We know he prefers a slightly more fitted silhouette. The only question is how he’s going to put it all together.
For spring/summer 2015, Gn does surprise just a bit with some of the boldest use of color we’ve seen in quite a while. Normally, he’ll at least start with some black and white, which is fairly common. This afternoon, he started with blue and there’s neither a black nor a white look anywhere in the collection. Radical? Not especially, but different in a very cool and refined way. The pants looks that lead the show, blue with white accents, are actually rather conventional compared to many we’ve seen.
Gn moves quickly to the prints, going with an ocean wave them that is very fluid and very attractive as he takes it through different iterations. He gradually merges the acquatic with floral and as the floral prints begin to take over the colors get significantly brighter. Once he hits a crisscrossing striped pattern (they’re not really checked and too loose to be basket weave), he’s using just about every color in the visible spectrum at its most intense level possible. Occasionally the prints get a bit abstract, rather like taking a painting and dragging a damp cloth across it, but he never loses the color to the very end. Visually, this is a very entertaining collection.
Silhouettes are, of course, rather fitted. One new aspect in this collection is a direct kimono influence at the waist of many looks. He never actually commits to a full kimono silhouette, but hints at them with this unique waist treatment that sort of acts as a belt, but is there more to interrupt the shape than gathering the cloth beneath it. While the look is certainly different, though, he does it with such grace that it feels natural, as though we fully expected him to do that very thing in that very place. With the exception of a handful of gowns, hems are short (no surprise) and sleeves, where they occur, as full. Nothing is stiff, though, and all the looks should be generally accessible for a wide variety of women.
What Andrew Gn designs are very cheerful clothes. I simply cannot look through this collection and not smile. If making people smile is unconventional, then let’s hope he becomes the most unconventional designer in all of Paris because this is just fun.
Photo credit: Regis Colin Berthelier