When Jil Sander resigned, for the third time, from her eponymous label, the assumption was that the Board of Directors likely had someone already in mind and would make an announcement of such prior to today’s show. That hasn’t happened. In fact, judging by the presence and body language of Board members sitting on the front row this afternoon, it seems unlikely they’ll be making an announcement any time soon.
There seems to be little question that Ms. Sander had considerable influence on this collection before she left. The minimalist style is very much along her signature lines. Silhouettes are full, but not boxy. Lines are clean and unadorned but incredibly well shaped and tailored. Folds and twists are precise and calculated.
Unfortunately, this also means we’re not really seeing anything new. While there are some pieces, specifically coats early in the collection, that sport some newer concepts in layering, for the most part this collection is comprised simply of a selection of Jil Sander favorites. Are we really surprised, though, when the design team was not tasked with creating their own collection, but rather making sure the feel and spirit of Jil Sander continues along established paths while the company searches for a new creative director?
So, for Jil Sanders fans, this is a wonderful collection that sees the return of many of their favorite designs. Jil always emphasized practicality and this collection is full of it. Mothers, busy mid-level executives, entrepreneurs, and any woman with good sense will enjoy these clothes and find them very useful and eternally wearable. One of the benefits to shopping Jil Sander is that there are not a lot of patterns or costuming in these clothes to render them obsolete next season. Pieces are sewn together incredibly well, so one can be sure their wardrobe investment is going to last. Fabrics are durable, mostly cotton and wool, nothing light and flimsy. Even the shoes are practical.
One would assume that we may see a change in the Jil Sander aesthetic by next season, and who knows what direction that may go. Enjoy these classic pieces while they are still available.