While red has been a dominant color on many of the runways this season, Richard Nicoll is having a blue moment; a very, very, very blue moment. I must say that I prefer this to the pink tones he threw at us last year, but his obsession with a single colour is ultimately limiting. Okay, so my personal wardrobe is all black. I have professional reasons for that. How many people need or want a wardrobe that is all blue?
Granted, there are a few other colors tossed in. He made a brief foray into an absolutely lovely rose for a few looks, and then there are some slight greens and browns, but he returns to blue again before finishing with a metallic gold. One thing about this gold, though, is that while the looks themselves are quite nice, one needs to be careful as to whether it matches your complexion. Of the three pieces, two were on models with darker skin tones; those looked lovely. The middle piece of the three, however, was on a decidedly pale British model and the gold totally washed on her; definitely not the best look for the model or the ensemble.
Many of Nicoll’s silhouettes, especially for the first several pieces, have strong masculine cuts to them, even to the point he has included shoulder pads in a number of suit coats and sweaters. However, the latter half of the collection is impressively feminine, which is a bit different from what we’ve seen of this label in the past. There were ruffles here and there and even layered chiffon that was applied quite nicely. Nicoll also has a thing going on with the back piece on several styles that looks a bit like a capelet.
What absolutely does not work here is the makeup. Yes, I understand, the nude look is in. However, it demonstrates a severe deficiency in the Maybelline-based looks that they were unable to at least cover up the dark circles under model’s eyes. If one wants to sell clothes, putting them on models who appear to have not slept in three days is probably not the best move (even though we know they truly have not slept in three days).
If one likes blue in all its forms, then one is going to thoroughly enjoy this Richard Nicoll collection. If not, then it may be one you end up passing, even though there are some very nice garments in other colors. We’ll have to see how the label fares this fall.