PFW: Roland Mouret S/S 2017

Roland Mouret S/S 17
Roland Mouret Spring/Summer 17. Photo credit: Luca Tombolini

Angles. Maybe I have some kind of fatigue from helping my son with his geometry, but every time I look at this Roland Mouret collections I see angles. Fortunately, that is not a bad thing as triangles, especially,are a very strong and attractive form of construction, even for a dress. The angles work together to form a silhouette that is light and flowing without losing its shape. As a result what we get is a very practical yet attractive collection that is very appropriate for a number of occasions next spring.

Mouret is, by his own admission, still on a high from opening a new flagship store on Madison Avenue in New York. The 1920s era townhouse was the stated source of inspiration so it’s not surprising that we find architectural and constructive references throughout the collection. Square peplum at the waist and in a few sleeves, set on a 90-degree angle so we notice the points, is probably the strongest element. However, as he gets deeper into the collection he exchanges the square for a swooping arch, creating an even stronger reference.

Textures play heavily into this collection as well. You’ll want to look for hessian mesh (yes, that’s a thing), embroidered neoprene (which can’t be easy), and puckered stretch checks. Actually, had he not mentioned the checks in his notes, I probably would have missed them. From any distance, the pucker doesn’t stand out all that much. Get close, though, and the effect is quite amazing. Mouret has done an excellent job pairing these different fabrics together so that the contrasts is appealing.

Mouret also says that he was looking more at what women would want to actually wear versus what they are told to buy. That probably accounts for the no-nonsense attitude we see in this collection. Sure, there’s plenty of sexiness in the off-the-shoulder looks and especially with the hessian mesh which teases at being transparent. At the same time, though, these are largely looks one can wear every day. One isn’t going to look out of place whether at the office or out shopping with most of these pieces. There’s purpose to these designs and that sense of usefulness shines through.

Yes, this collection is very attractive, but that’s probably not what is going to send you to the store looking for the label. You’re going to want that sense of refinement without being snooty. You’re going to want a look that is as strong and as well put together as you. This is the collection for which you have been looking all season. This is a more serious Roland Mouret. We’re looking forward to seeing where he goes next.

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