Some brands are defined by a certain style. Some, by a color. Others, are known for methods of minimalism or deconstruction. For this season, however, Phoebe Philo’s Céline collection is going to be known for that print. You know, the blue one on white fabric; the one that really stands out from the rest of the collection. Never mind the fact that there are some incredibly wonderful designs throughout. What people are going to remember is that print.
In her designer notes, Ms. Philo quotes Dan Graham as her inspiration for the collection: “Our bodies are bound to the world, whether we like it or not.”
That quote might explain the earth tones that occupy much of the collection. One might even find a sense of “earthiness” in some of the rough tweeds we see scattered here and there. This is a very attractive line, a very wearable collection. The qualities that make Céline so popular are very much on display.
There are plenty of new aspects to this season as well. There’s the long-pants-sticking-out-from-under-shorter-pants look which looks better with some combinations that with others. There’s also the times she gathers a bodice and ties it off just below the breast bone. That should be an especially popular look for summer. Add that to the curved cut on some of the skirts as well as the creative layering frequently employed and this is a very well-composed collection.
Still, it is that one print, used twice, referenced more, that is going to stick in everyone’s memory. The rough blue on white. You look at it and you know what it is. In that moment, one might be tempted to look for more detail than they should. Is this too explicit for certain occasions? Perhaps. It might not be fitting for Sunday morning church attire, to be sure. At the same time, it is very engaging and quite artistic, so there really isn’t a problem, is there?
Sometimes, it is good to be defined by a look, especially when it is a look that can be modified and reused. I’m not sure how reusable this print might be. In fact, I’m curious to see how popular it is. I like it. I think it is provocative for all the right reasons. But then, I’m not likely to be wearing one. Without question, though, this is the look that defines Céline for spring.