MFW: Missoni S/S 2017

Missoni S/S 17
Missoni, Spring/Summer 2017. Photo credit: Kim Weston Arnold

You would think that we would have seen it all by now. My list of things I’ve never seen on a runway is pretty short: a duck, truck tires, fresh pizza vending, things like that. Oh, and a totally naked model. We’ve seen a couple of topless models, but no one has had the audacity to send one down the runway with no clothes at all.

For a split second this afternoon, I thought we might check that one off the list. We didn’t, but for a brief moment, when you look to the end of the runway and your eyes haven’t yet fully focused, it certainly appeared that way.  Twice.

What Ms. Missoni was sending down the runway, both times, may be the smallest bikini I’ve seen in a ready-to-wear show. Now, the swimwear shows, which are a different set of strangeness altogether, can get ’em pretty tiny, but ready-to-wear usually likes to have more material with which to play. This season, especially, we’ve seen a lot of single-piece swimwear and several two-piece suits where the bottom was extremely high wasted. There are been plenty of fabric on what swimwear we’ve seen.

Not here. I’m still rubbing my eyes. Ms. Missoni pulled off a wonderful stunt without being overly elaborate. Here we are late in the day, everyone having sat through a plethora of other fashion shows, and our eyes are beginning to droop. The dresses Missoni is offering for this spring/summer season are nothing short of gorgeous. Ms. Missoni is a master at knitwear, we all know that, but this season I think she may have woven light itself into these clothes. The gradients and color blocking is so smooth and well done that it seems to happen naturally. As a result, this may be one of the most aesthetically pleasing collections we’ve seen all season.

Yet, after about the first 20 looks, one can be distracted. All the lurex starts to have the same sheen to it. The differences come down to long or short, sleeves or no sleeves. It becomes easy to miss the subtle layering because the colors blend so very well. If one was paying attention, there was a bikini in look 22, but it had a bandeau top and a gorgeous tan cover.

In that brief moment when everyone thought the model was naked, there was a collective pause; not really a gasp per se, because no one wanted to be shocked until they were certain. Her ebony skin, the dark suit, the none-too-bright runway lighting, all worked together one the ruse. Had there not been white stripes on the suit, Ms. Missoni might have actually fooled us for more than a second. She definitely had our attention. Then, four looks later, she does it to us again, this time in gold tone. Everyone stayed awake for the remainder of the show.

Ms. Missoni kept everyone on their toes and chatter about those dresses has been non-stop on social media ever since. The way she has worked the colors into the lurex is nothing short of amazing. Waiting for spring has never been more difficult.

And if you’re looking for a new swimsuit, well, she has that too.

Tags from the story
, , , , , , ,
More from charles i. letbetter

NYFW: DESIGUAL S/S 2016

Ick. If you don’t like wandering around in the rain, this hasn’t...
Read More