MFW: Moschino S/S 2017

Moschino S/S 17
Moschino Spring/Summer 2017. Photo credit: Yannis Vlamos

Do you remember playing with paper dolls when you were a kid? Personally, I can’t say that I do, but I remember a playmate who did. She loved her paper dolls more than anything and was constantly wanting to wear what her paper dolls were wearing. I’ve no idea if that playmate is still alive, but if she is her dreams just came true. Thanks to Moschino, you can wear what your paper dolls wore.

Jeremy Scott actually fooled me for a moment with the first piece he sent down the runway. From a distance, it looked very much as though he had sent Gigi Hadid out in nothing but underwear. Given the way today has gone, that wouldn’t have surprised me, either. As she got closer, though, we could tell that a full-body print on a white gown was what Miss Hadid was actually wearing. The size match was remarkably accurate and when she stood still it was almost challenging to tell the difference.

So it went throughout the collection. Some  pieces were just screen prints of things such as leather jackets and underwear. Others looked exactly like paper cutouts from the 60s, complete with tabs to fold over the doll. There were even punched-out hats and accessories, such as beach towels and feather boas. Perhaps what was most fun was when the paper dress was designed for the “doll” to hold her arm at a certain angle so as to fit behind a glove and the model held her arm in a different position. Seeing an armless opera glove just dangling out there was rather humorous.

Scott didn’t seem to miss many details, either. The tabbed “paper” dresses were sufficiently stiff and unbendable. They were also printed on only one side. The back side was white, just as paper wardrobe would be.

Jeremy has had a lot of fun with this theme and it feels a lot less like he’s pandering than in previous seasons. As a result, the pill bottle purses and cell phone covers come off more as the kind of kitsch everyone wants rather than the pretentious trappings of someone with more money than sense.

I can’t wait to see if everything makes it through production with the foldover tabs in place. They upset the flow of the silhouette enough I can see garment manufacturers complaining a bit. Those details are going to make the garments more expensive, too. You’re probably not going to be able to afford more than one of these, so choose carefully. Make sure the garment matches your body type (and yes, there are dark-skinned options).

Perhaps it is because Scott no longer feels that he has to prove himself worthy of being creative director for Moschino, or maybe he’s just matured and settled down a bit, but this is his first collection for the label I can honestly say I like. This is fun, accessible, and just disrespectful enough to be worthy of the brand. Should he continue with this level of creativity, Scott can stay at Moschino as long as he wants.

More from charles i. letbetter

MFW: ALBERTA FERRETTI S/S 2015

Holy 70’s sheer! Gucci may have toyed with the bohemian look a...
Read More