NYFW: MARC JACOBS S/S 2017

Marc Jacobs S/S 17
Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2017. Photo credit: Umberto Franini

Today was the last day of NYFW. As you’re reading this, all the fashion editors, buyers, and bloggers who have been wandering around Manhattan and taking up seats at all the best restaurants are on planes heading for London where LFW commences at about 3:00 AM Indianapolis time. I plan on going to bed early.

For all the changes to this season’s New York shows, today has felt the most strange. Normally, there would be three major shows: Ralph Lauren at 10, Calvin Klein at 2, and Marc Jacobs at  6. with Jacobs’ show beginning promptly so make sure you’re there early. That didn’t happen today, though. Ralph Lauren showed his first ever see-now, buy-now collection last night (see our review here). Calvin Klein offered only limited private audiences. Seeing no reason to hold his show until late, Marc Jacobs moved his show into the 2:00 timeslot. I know everyone catching a plane to London appreciates the move, but to finish a Marc Jacobs show and the sun still be shining just feels a bit weird. But then, there’s always something about Marc Jacobs that feels a bit weird.

This season’s set consisted of a large, rectangular black stage above which were dangling hundreds of bare light bulbs dropped from the ceiling at varying heights. The effect was somewhat like stars twinkling in the sky. I’m still trying to figure out the meaning behind the puddles of water (or possibly oil?) on the stage. They’re not mentioned in Marc’s notes and no one has been able to offer a reasonable suggestion. They reflected the lights in an interesting way and maybe that’s all the explanation we need.

The clothes themselves were set to a futuristic theme, with a lot of metallic fabrics in silver, showing pink, and purple. Models once again wore platform boots so tall I’m guessing extra insurance was required. Fortunately, we didn’t see anyone slip or fall this time (good job, Bella). Silhouettes were broad at the shoulders and extremely short on length. More than one model was wearing shorts under her skirt to avoid embarrassment.

While the show felt like a cross between a futuristic rave and an indoor version of the Burning Man festival, if one separates the ensembles there are some very wearable, very accessible pieces to this collection. There are some amazing dresses, beautiful cashmere sweaters, extremely cool applique hoodies and skirts, and very fun rainbow socks. Large coats prevented us from seeing some of the base looks from the runway, but looking at the still photos I think there is a lot more depth to this collection than first meets the eye. He also goes through a section where he takes a creative turn at camo and pseudo-military styling as well and some of the sleeves are extra-large in a odd Victorian sort of way.

Overall, this is a very bright, very energetic, and at times, a very hopeful and innocent collection. The version of the future that Jacobs presents here is very happy and very positive, one where cultures have merged into a beautiful new whole. This is a future where young women are free to explore new concepts and create their own identity without anyone telling them what they can’t do or can’t wear.

Unfortunately, judging by comments being made on social media during and after the show, a lot of people seemed to miss that point. Marc uses this collection to point toward a future that is full of amazing possibilities. Perhaps we should try to make that come true.

More from charles i. letbetter

PFW: CHANEL A/W 2015

Champagne, croissant, and fresh melon at 10:00 AM? Sure, you’re in Paris;...
Read More