NYFW: JEREMY SCOTT S/S 2017

Jeremy Scott SS 17
Jeremy Scott Spring/Summer 017. Photo Credit Umberto Fratini

I’ve watched a lot of fashion shows this morning so that by the point Jeremy Scott finally kicked off around 11:30 my brain was screaming for something interesting enough to keep me awake. It’s not that everyone else was lacking. We saw a lot of beautiful designs and concepts across the morning. There just wasn’t anything spectacular to make them jump out. When this season’s silhouettes aren’t significantly different from last season’s silhouettes the whole effect is rather numbing.

Fortunately, no one has ever accused Jeremy Scott of being numbing. I’m not always the biggest fan of Mr. Scott, especially the work he does for Moschino. There are too many seasons where it feels like he’s pandering rather than being genuinely creative. I have to admit, though, that I like most of what I see in this collection, and he did manage to keep me awake for at least one more hour.

Right off the bat, there are parts of this collection that I think the late Andy Warhol would enjoy. At the very least, the screen printed faces not only reference Warhol but the entire pop art movement of the late 20th century. The screen printed pieces, not just the faces but other elements as well, are probably the strongest theme of this collection. Scott takes the concept through several different iterations and each is as appealing and attractive as the one before. I think my favorite, though, has to be a screen printed pleated skirt. As the tight pleats move, so does the face on the material. The effect is unique and, perhaps, just a little unnerving in a good way.

I was also very amused by the way Scott plays with zippers in this collection. The effect of the diagonally sewn zippers was a create-your-own-cutout as they were left open at different places. The visual impact was surprisingly appealing, at least in the way it was presented this morning. I would imagine that in the wrong hands the zippers could be horribly misused and in some cases opened to  inappropriate lengths. Still, the whole concept was quite interesting.

Not everything worked, of course. Really muscular, well-toned men stuffed into the tightest possible leather pants did NOT look the least bit comfortable. The models seemed to be grimacing as they made their way down the catwalk. There is also an instance of a shirt screen printed with a pair of legs. The print puts the upper thigh of the leg right at the collar and stretching down to about mid-riff. The woman’s version is okay, though perhaps a bit odd. On a male model, however, it just looks creepy and I’m not sure there’s any way to fix that.

Along the way, there are a lot of bright colors, some interesting takes on swimwear, and one Jeremy-branded tube of toothpaste ala Moschino. Then, there are the last few sequined numbers with very large discs at various intervals. I didn’t get a look at Jeremy’s notes and no one seemed to be able to explain exactly what was going on. My guess is they were positioned to ensure personal space. Although, just wearing those sequined outfits might have the same effect.

All in all, I was surprised by just how much of this collection is wearable and accessible. The looks were exciting and interesting without being pandering or insulting. This was a great break in the middle of a very full day. Well done, Mr.  Scott.

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