NYFW: VICTORIA BECKHAM S/S 2017

Victoria Beckham SS2017
Victoria Beckham Spring/Summer 2017. Picture credit: Luca Tombolini

Victoria Beckham tries really hard to act as though she’s just like every other woman on the planet. She gets up in the morning and “tosses” on clothes made by her own label, checks on each of her four model children, kisses her incredibly handsome and athletic husband good-bye and the runs off to her office for the day. Most other women do that exact same thing, don’t they?

Sure they do, Mrs. Beckham, minus the designer duds, the picture-perfect children, and the adorable husband that every other woman on the planet would happily take off your hands should you ever tire of him. We probably shouldn’t mention that part about splitting time between New York and London or having previously been part of a highly successful pop music group. We wouldn’t want to make all the other women jealous.

Victoria Beckham tries really hard to design for every woman. She wants her clothes to be comfortable. She wants her clothes to be accessible. Mrs. Beckham wants her clothes to be the type of thing women just reach into their closet and “throw on.” Seriously. Those are her exact words. She wants the collection to look, “like something you just throw on and go.”

I’m not sure Mrs. Beckham is looking at the same collection that the rest of us are seeing. Granted, there is a tremendous amount of crushed velvet in this collection and crushed velvet actually looks better when it’s a bit wrinkled. But there’s even more silk, satin, and cotton here and those fabrics tend to not look so sharp when one just picks them up (presumably off the top of the laundry basket) and tosses them on.  When one spends as much for their clothing as items from this collection costs, one treats them gently and wears them carefully.

Mrs. Beckham built this collection with the basic needs of every woman in mind. That is, she started with and features the concept and shape of the bra. This is somewhat of a simplification from the bustier concept she utilized for the fall. Sometimes she treats the bra as a foundation garment, other times as a style element,  and still other times as pure decoration. With almost every garment, though, the bra is there somewhere.  They’re not always participating in a functional capacity, though, and I have to wonder how well some of the pieces work if one opts to wear a different bra under the stylistic bra.

The bra is as close as she comes to a theme for the collection. Mrs. Beckham says she didn’t have any one specific source of inspiration. Neither did she have a particular silhouette that represents the collection. “I just want women to be comfortable,” she said.

As a result, this spring/summer collection has everything from bra-shaped crop tops with low-slung loose fitting pants to floral print dresses with razor-sharp pleats. There are crushed velvet jackets that look a bit like housecoats but aren’t. There are skirts where the waistline seems to be all bunched up. There are matching messenger bags, also done in crushed velvet, that go with several of the ensembles.

Everything in the collection really does look comfortable and easily maintained and nothing says “busy mom” like a large messenger bag slung over the shoulder. Mrs. Beckham often matches the bags with a crushed velvet crop top so you won’t have to worry about looking wrinkled when you get where you’re going.

I can say that the collection closely mirrors the designer’s own taste in clothes. Watch the paparazzi shots and you’ll see her wearing the exact same style that she puts on the runway. She knows how her clothes feel and she wants other women to feel as comfortable as she does. When you stop and think about it, that really is a good way to design clothes.

The one thing I hear women at this show really want, though, is the one thing Mrs. Beckham can’t put on a store rack:  her husband. After the way she gushed about him in interviews this morning, I don’t think you stand much chance of getting him, ladies.  Brooklyn turns 18 next March, though. Maybe you can connect to the family through him— if you’re not too old.

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