Quiet. Stillness. Those are typically not words one uses to describe Paris nor any other fashion week. Yet, that is how Phoebe Philo chose to describe her fall/winter collection for this season. She lets comfort and simplicity take the lead with silhouettes that are loose, flowing, and provide easy transitions through one’s day. These are clothes less inclined toward going out and more of the mind to stay home, enjoy a nice glass of wine, and curl up by the fireplace, which doesn’t sound like a bad idea at all.
Interestingly enough, Philo chooses a goldenrod palette that is brighter than what we typically see in a fall/winter collection. This array of yellows might be just as easily suited for spring though they’re not inappropriate for autumn, either. This plays to the seasonless approach that many in the fashion world have been advocating. Appealing to a global economy means there is always someone who needs a heavy coat as well as someone who needs something light and soft. This collection provides plenty of both.
Going loose and simple means we have silhouettes that are full with abundant use of silk, satin, and brushed cotton. We see some leather in the coats and unique sleeveless overlays, but we also see plenty of pajama style looks as well. In fact, to refer to much of this Céline collection as loungewear would not be inappropriate. There’s even one yellow piece that fit so loosely on the model she had to hold it to keep it from falling off.
What one may find interesting about this collection is the way Philo pulls at the fabrics, creating gathers at unusual places and at times giving the impression that the fabric is being stretched as though it doesn’t quite fit correctly, or maybe was put on sideways. This happens in different places on different pieces and isn’t wholly consistent. Sometimes the effect is decorative when it occurs briefly at the hip. Other times she pulls toward the back of the waist and the look is barely noticeable.
Speaking of waists, Philo’s are low slung with one delightful piece beautifully constructed with the same silhouette one would produce tying a jacket around their waist but without all the extra bulk such a move produces. She also gets very creative in how she uses pleats especially in a dress where they run from neck to hem, tied loosely at the waist minus any real restrictions. Throughout the collection, Philo finds ways to create looks that are less stressful and emphasize comfort.
If there is any danger to this very casual collection it is that it may be too comfortable. Many of these pieces are styled in such a way that one might just fall asleep in them. If that’s the biggest problem a collection has, though, then I hope they order a large production run. These are likely to sell out quickly.