PFW: CHLOÉ F/W 2016

Chloe F/W 2016
Chloe F/W 2016

Adventure was the theme for Chloé this morning and that certainly is a concept with which many people can relate, but it’s not bad marketing, either. In capturing the idea of spontaneous escapes,  Claire Waight Keller also brings along the idea of collecting moments, something that appeals to the many Millennial-aged #chloegirls she had sitting on the front row. Theirs is a generation that is more free spirited, and for fashion that inevitably, apparently, means going back to the 1970s. Again.

If one is beginning to get the feeling we’ve been here before, we have. Spontaneous and free-spirited is beginning to be synonymous with ponchos and leather and sweeping, long-skirted Georgette dresses. Oh, and if one is going to be that wandering nomad, then please, make sure you have a scarf tied around your neck as though it is keeping your head on your shoulders.

Please pardon my sarcasm, but I was really hoping for more. Granted, there are some incredibly attractive pieces in this collection. A knit sweater dress that shows up early is perfect for that person who suffers through the winter never quite being warm enough no matter where the thermostat is set. There is also a voluminous full-length poncho that actually looks as though it might help one survive a lonely night in the desert. Leather in this collection is hand-tooled and sturdy. For that matter, there’s a tremendous amount of hand detailing in this collection. A lot o very careful work has gone into this collection.

Still, one cannot escape the fact that fashion has been stuck in the 70s the past three seasons. I appreciate the low-cut and zipper-front sweaters, and the inkblot prints are fun, especially in one very 3D coat toward the end. Yet, one has to ask at what point customers start looking at store shelves and realizing they already have some version of everything that’s there? Does one need 15 different bomber jackets? Ponchos and capes are great, but they take up a lot of room in a closet. When does the redundancy start to be too much?

This is a beautiful collection and with all the biker looks and racing stripes, Waight Keller does a great job of capturing the spirit of being a passionate adventurer. We’re ready to move on, though.  Please. It would be nice to see this same effort put into more original silhouettes. We’ve seen this before, everywhere. Time to move on.

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