PFW: JACQUEMUS F/W 2016

Jacquemus F/W 2016
Jacquemus F/W 2016

Well, if you were looking for different, we found it. Yes, different is expected from Jacquemus, but it is a level of different that ultimately pairs down and plays well once it hits stores. The paring down is going to have to be severe this season, at least for American audiences, and I’m willing to bet there are a couple of silhouettes we won’t be seeing in the window at Macy’s anytime soon. All of which gives us a very good reason to talk about the collection.

Apparently, the mantra “go large or go home” was on Jacquemus’ mind as he was creating this collection. Elsewhere he has said that he was inspired by his late mother’s ability to pull together a wardrobe out of anything, and one can certainly see that influence here as well. Jacquemus pieces together disparate textures and fabrics in ways one certainly wouldn’t expect. With the largeness of over-sized exaggeration of the pieces, one can imagine, perhaps, how our own clothes must look to a small child. He seems to have tapped into that perspective very well.

Nothing in this collection is what we could consider “normal” sized. The very first jacket looks like something Sponge Bob Squarepants might wear if he were to turn into a mobster of some sort. Shoulders are especially exaggerated and the trend toward long sleeves grows even longer with the pieces we see on this runway. And … is that a bladder shaped purse prominently displayed in the sixth look? Yes, indeed it is, colored a bright orange to be sure we don’t miss it. One suit, half solid, half pin-stripe, looks as though it were sliced diagonally with a Samurai sword and is being held together with white pieces of bed sheet that happened to be handy.

Everything here is out of perspective. Buttons are huge. Tops that look meant to tie at the shoulder appear too big and tie a few inches above the shoulder; think, again, about a child trying on their parents’ clothes. There are housecoat dresses, including one that appears to still have the (oversized) department store security tag attached. On another ensemble, a pink tutu is worn as a top. And the most interesting piece: A silver metallic dress stuck to a dark blue suit. Think static cling gone horribly wrong.

Oh yeah, there’s also a dress where the bustier top takes an intentional dip, leaving the right breast exposed. Interestingly enough, this is the one piece where the proportions are almost normal. This is actually a throwback to 18th-century fashion styles, though. Marie Antoinette wore bustier tops quite like this. Perhaps this is further proof that fashion styles are circular.

We’re in Paris so don’t think this is the strangest fashion show we’re likely to see, but it is definitely creative and unique. As deconstructionists go, Jacquemus knows how to put things together in ways that capture out attention and force us to rethink how we wear clothes. That’s not a bad thing at all.

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