MFW: MISSONI F/W 2016

Missoni F/W 2016
Missoni F/W 2016

Rain has been back in Milan this afternoon and even though it let up a bit just in time for the Missoni presentation, there’s more coming, along with warnings of interruptions in local transit. Already, buyers especially are discussing which of tomorrow’s shows they might prefer to stream from their hotel rooms rather than venturing out into the city’s increasingly difficult streets. This could be my imagination, but it seems  the masses of buyers and editors have become tired earlier this season. Paris doesn’t start until Wednesday and already some are talking of cutting their week short if collections don’t get more exciting quickly.

Fortunately, this evening’s Missoni show was not boring. Taking slight advantage of the ever-continuing trend for 70s styles (one of the reasons so many are grumbling), Missoni mixes hooded sweaters and flared legs to create a look that is warm, inviting, and attractive whether one is downtown, uptown, or all around town. Knits tend to be the more flexible part of one’s wardrobe anyway, but this is a collection that is ready to put in some serious extra duty. Even better, one wouldn’t need to buy the entire line to feel they had captured the look. Two ensembles and you’ve got it.

We all are familiar with color blocking, but what Missoni does with most the knits in this collection might best be described as pattern blocking. We’ve seen a lot of variations in their trademark zig-zag pattern over the years. What Angela has done this season is reach back, with her mother’s help, and use different patterns from the house archives just like one might with color blocking. The result is a delicious patchwork of patterns that are similar yet different, full of different colors and style, and working them together into single garments. Whether she’s using only two or three patterns, or dozens, the look is wonderful, slightly bohemian, but thoroughly modern.

For the more formal pieces, Missoni works with lurex in shades of gray, brown, and occasional touches of gold. The looks sparkle as one expects from eveningwear, but the dresses have a fitted look to them without being severely tailored and the coats are as warm and enveloping as though they were made of wool.

If one likes scarves, one is going to love this Missoni collection. The scarves are very long, which could be interesting if one is not quite as tall as the average model. Even wrapped a time or two, the scarves barely avoided dragging the ground. Those of shorter stature might find themselves completely wrapping in the scarves with some material left over. This is especially true of the super-wide versions that were easily a half-meter or more in breadth.

There are a couple of places where the looks worked on the runway but the practicality might be questionable. One is with zig-zag patterned tights. Sure, they looked great on a model’s fit posterior, but on the majority of women, it could possibly end up looking like a seismograph reading which wouldn’t be at all flattering. Then, there were the super-narrow scarves that were accompanied by multiple long dangles with heavy fobs at the ends. Again, looked great coming down the catwalk, but we both know good and well they would constantly be in your way and a constant source of frustration, especially for anyone leaning  over a table or desk.

Still, this is a very warm, very fun, and very attractive collection from Missoni. There’s broad age appeal to the collection and the color combination means the looks can pair with just about anything in the closet. This is a very good  way to end the weekend.

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