MFW: DOLCE & GABBANA F/W 2016

Dolce & Gabbana F/W 2016
Dolce & Gabbana F/W 2016

“So this is love.”

The set was straight out of a storybook. A gilded carriage at center stage, an elegant bed with a seashell headboard on one side, a giant storybook on the other. The open page of the storybook tells of a princess escorted through the forest by Dominic Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. Songs from Disney’s Cinderella played as guests arrive. Chandeliers hanging from the ceiling were draped with roses. This dream was the fairly tale updated, or perhaps what happens after “happily ever after,” as the designers’ note suggested. Either way, it was a fantasy world that was full of glitter and sparkles and poofy shoulders and bows and floral tiaras.

Interestingly enough, it was a Prince Charming ensemble that came down the runway first, a cropped military style jacket with tails, epaulets, and medals appliqued to the front. Next came a very sparkly, and thankfully shorter, version of Cinderella’s blue ballgown. References to the animated film were everywhere, both in prints of the mice, Jaq and Gus, running around with needle and thread, as well as copious references to hand mirrors and clocks. There was even a wicked stepmother dress about six looks in; go ahead and wear that one to your kid’s daycare. I dare you.

Few of the silhouettes themselves have changed. There were plenty of masculine cut, military-styled cropped jackets. There were tailored dresses with oversize cuffs and large collars. There were immensely proportioned overcoats. And there were headpieces; oh heavens were there headpieces. Those that were based on bows or large flowers were rather nice, but some, such as the one based on a houndstooth pattern, were a bit garish. I’m still questioning whether anyone is actually buying these headpieces and wearing them. I would assume such to be the case given they keep showing up season after season, but I’ve yet to see them pop up in anyone’s street style pictures.

As usual, this is a huge collection with plenty of appliqued sweaters, print dresses, and, in this case, enough pink sequins to possibly create world shortage. Trousers and dresses typically come to about mid-calf and most of the trousers are cuffed. Dresses tend to button up the back and often the buttons are unusually large, but not to the point of being unattractive.

Novel pieces include a red print dress covered in cats, because we all know someone who needs that dress (available in white as well). A puffy-sleeved white dress with black embellished collar is a princess’s dream. And a black dress with an applique chandelier has chains dangling where crystals would be to create a very unique 3D effect. Oh, and don’t forget the coat covered in teddy bears!

We expect spectacle from Dolce & Gabbana and that is exactly what we get. Models’ finalè walk was done in a sea of silver and red dresses absolutely dripping in sequins. There must be a reluctant prince giving a ball somewhere, mustn’t there? Every little girl who has grown up looking for her Prince Charming is going to love this collection. No word yet as to whether any of the piece will be downsized for children, but don’t be too terribly surprised if they do. This is a collection made for dreamers and in a Dolce & Gabbana world those dreams may very well come true.

 

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