Bora Aksu is the first designer in London to make it official that Goth is going to be a global trend this fall. The makeup and hair styles were very similar to what we saw with similar collections in New York and something tells me this isn’t the only encounter were going to have with the 15th century while we’re here.
What Aksu does differently, however, is to bring a bit of 19th-century romanticism to the mix. There’s almost a sense of being in a fairy tale as models come down the runway with their hair in braids or under a ruffled bonnet. Bibs and panels with laser cutouts hint at old-world embroidery while keeping the pieces fresh and modern. The overall tone feels dark, but there’s a strength in the aesthetic that says these are not the women with whom one should trifle.
Once again, and this is consistently his strong point, Aksu puts an incredible amount of attention into the detail. He makes extensive use of laser cuts in this collection, rather like any man with a new toy, but his creative designs bring a refreshing sense of newness to some very old styles that have been part of European wardrobes for centuries. Where he’s not using cutouts, he layers fur (this is winter, after all), and the knee-high lace-up boots add a sense of forcefulness. As models march down the runway, one can almost imagine them charging through a dark wood, ready to end the days of some big, bad wolf.
There are many ways one can interpret Goth, and it seems certain that we will see others, but this take by Bora Aksu is wonderfully unique and adds a beautiful twist to the concept.