NYFW: MARISSA WEBB F/W 2016

Marisssa Webb F/W 2016
Marisssa Webb F/W 2016

How many fashion shows can you watch at the same time? In theory, that depends upon the number of devices one has and how many shows are actually streaming. From a practical standpoint, however, trying to watch more than one at a time is absolute insanity. The pace is too fast, the styles go by too quickly, to be distracted by anything else. Unfortunately, Marissa Webb has had to put up with a lot of unnecessary distraction.

First, her timeslot was hijacked by a circus clown who decided at the last minute that he would just take the 4:00 PM place on the schedule. He didn’t ask because his ego is too big for that, he just did, knowing that his show was too big to not demand media attention. He showed complete disregard the other two shows scheduled for that time slot. So, Ms. Webb did want any reasonable person would do, she shifted her show up an hour. All’s good, right?

Hardly. The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), who owns the fashion week schedule and is supposed to be managing this entire circus, also handles the live streaming for the official sites. This is part of the package for which designers pay when they agree to show at one of the three official locations. However, when Ms. Webb moved her show to 3:00, that put her in the same time slot as Desigual, who was showing in another official space. So, when the stream started at 3:20, what was showing on Ms. Webb’s website was not her show, but Desigual’s! Additionally, some of the contracted runway photographers didn’t get the memo and were late to the show.

Someone owes Marissa Webb a big apology.

After all that, how was the fashion show? Lovely, actually. Marissa does winter quite well, as we’ve seen in previous seasons, and she started this collection much like last year with dark tones and heavy coats. There aren’t as many tweeds and plaids this season, though. In their place Ms. Webb opts for light skirts that wear well under the heavier pieces without causing one to perspire, which is always a winter hazard. A very nice surprise is the loose floral pattern she uses on chiffon dresses that sash and sway as one walks. There’s almost a feel of spring to the silhouettes, but she keeps the pieces seasonal with darker colors in the patterns.

Speaking of color, Ms. Webb introduces some gold to this collection, reaching out away from the darker tones a bit with dresses whose skirts are sheer and bouncy. She also makes nice use of a dust rose and a burnt umber mixed in with the black and gray coats of the season.

Marissa accessorizes little, with most seasons having no accessories at all save the shoes. This year, though, she seems quite taken with long, broad scarves and uses them frequently. This is a very nice touch in that not only are they practical for the season, they give a woman multiple options as to how they can be worn. For such a common and understated accessory, they fit this collection quite well.

There are a few standard touches in the mix. Ms. Webb does manage to keep a couple of cowl necked knits, she still makes artistic use of layering, and her hemlines are, once again, all over the place. Yet, she keeps the collection fresh with how she utilizes vests and bare shouldered elements.

One has to go to a bit of trouble to see this collection. Hopefully, the correct replay of her show will be on her website soon. She definitely deserves your attention more than the guy who can’t decide on a name for his album. CFDA owes her an apology, and possibly a partial refund, though. How Marissa’s been treated this season is inexcusable.

 

photo credit: Elizabeth Pantaleo

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