PFW: MIU MIU S/S 2016

Miu Miu S/S16
Miu Miu S/S16

Perhaps the most enjoyable part of this show was watching photographers’ heads spin as they walked into the venue. Please pardon a bit of insider chat for a moment here, but you know the gold and silver metallic fabrics we use for light reflectors? That’s what covered the 20-foot-high walls at the Miu Miu show this afternoon, alternating silver and gold so that the tone literally changed as models walked. Photographers coming into the venue either looked very confused or, in more than a few cases, downright angry because how in the world is one supposed to set their white balance against such a horrible background?

Then, there was the music. We all put up with a lot of soundtrack choices that would never make it onto our own playlists. We especially hear a lot of alternative rock and electronic music, because that’s what’s supposed to be cool and hip. The problem is that the greater majority of it sucks, makes absolutely no sense for the collection, and is often more of a distraction. No one likes having to wear ear protection to a fashion show, but sometimes it’s necessary. With Miu Miu, the bass was so loud that everyone’s seat was vibrating, and not in a way that was the least bit pleasurable.

One needs to give folks a bit of a break at this point in the schedule. Only the amateurs arrive at these late shows with any real enthusiasm. Everyone else has already sat through more than a month of these things and, quite honestly, we’re tired of it all. The challenge is we never know exactly how Miuccia Prada is going to channel her creativity for this more junior-oriented and always somewhat eccentric line. We know better than to expect anything “normal,” but in which direction she might go is always a toss up. This collection was no different and even now, after its all over and I’m sitting here looking back through the pictures, I’m still doing more than a little bit of head scratching.

What you’re most likely to enjoy from this collection are the wide array of shoes, even more so than with the main Prada line. There is a plethora of extremely cool and colorful lace-up boots, some of which are platforms, some not, all with chunky heels so that you’re less likely to turn an ankle while wearing them. There are also ballet slippers with mismatched ribbon ties that are certain to be best-sellers. There are a surprising number of coats for a spring/summer collection, but they’re also one of the stronger points in the whole set. Patterned pencil skirts are quite attractive, and the cardigans with diamond patterns are a nice vintage throwback.

Everything else, though, may leave one trying the best to not curse. Let’s start with the raccoon tails. Not fox, not ermine, but raccoon. You remember raccoons, don’t you, those furry little bandits sitting just off to the edge of the picnic area waiting to scavenge anything edible you might throw away? Yeah, she puts those tails on the end of belts, hanging out of coat pockets, and plenty of other rather socially awkward places. Then, there are the ruffled sheer maid’s aprons she puts over several looks. Well, most the time they’re over other looks. On a few occasions, they are the look and it’s not something Miu Miu’s target 16-24-year-old demographic would probably wear out in public. Ruffles show up a couple of other times as well, such as the front of dresses, and there they always looked off-center, as though the seamstress was having a bad day.

So, once again, Miu Miu is a very mixed bag. I’m told the sheer portions play really well in China and Japan. I’ve nothing to confirm or deny that, but perhaps it is that different cultural aesthetic that doesn’t always make sense to my Western-styled brain.

This is the end of our fashion week coverage for the spring/summer 2016 season. The lines at Charles DeGaulle are already long and with Air France still on strike some of these people are going to have trouble getting home. We appreciate you joining us on this excursion. I’m going to go take a nap now. Caio.

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