PFW: ROLAND MOURET S/S 2016

Roland Mouret S/S16
Roland Mouret S/S16

Sunday mornings in Paris are slow, easy, relatively quiet moments that generally ease into calm afternoons and quiet evenings. Sure, there may a party here or there, but on Sundays they tend to be family affairs, not the lavish blowouts like Vogue Paris threw last night. Sunday gatherings are more reserved. So, it makes sense that Sunday’s fashions are, with a couple of notable exceptions, more quiet, classic, and elegant styles. From that group, we chose Roland Mouret primarily because with this season he celebrates the tenth anniversary of his classic Galaxy dress.

Mouret enjoys giving his dresses names that relate to the universe, though one might argue that perhaps the names are a measure more grand and exciting than the actual fashion. In this case, his Galaxy dress was the designer’s first real commercial success. To look at the dress, it may appear rather plain. It’s somewhat squared neckline broadens gently from the shoulders to just above the bust. An hourglass silhouette is secured by a thin belt at the center of the waist, not too high, not too low. Short, pleated sleeves and a button-down back complete the look that doesn’t yell or scream or go crazy. This is that perfect dress, though, for all those mildly formal matters when one needn’t be sexy or ostentatious or do anything to draw attention to one’s self. So, Mouret celebrates the tenth anniversary of this dress by giving us one in every pastel color he can find, and makes them for sale immediately on his website. No waiting.

The rest of his rather large collection, though, Mouret takes a slightly more contemporary turn and for some of his most ardent followers perhaps creates a little risk. Afterall, Mouret is known for more classically styled femininity, so touches like the shoulder cutouts, deeper necklines, and mesh panels may not have the same appeal to his older customers, though they may help expand the brand to a slightly younger audience. Mouret stays on point with tiered ruffles and A-line skirts with piped color blocking. Floral applique on elongated pencil skirts adds a touch of texture and extra hint of glamor. A soft floral print on dark blue is crisp and understated to the point one may have to look twice to realize those are actually flower petals.

Soft, quiet, easy, these dresses are perfect for a Sunday afternoon in Paris, or most anywhere else. Granted, when clothes retail for around $2,800, one may not have much cash left to make a lot of noise. But even if all one can do is taking a peaceful walk through the park, these are the dresses guaranteeing that when heads turn they’ll do so with a smile.

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