MFW: ERMANNO SCERVINO S/S 2016

Ermanno Scervino S/S16
Ermanno Scervino S/S16

For a label that is only fifteen years old, Ermanno Scervino has done a great job of pushing its way to the top of the Made In Italy platform, knocking off some old-school houses that have opted to dumb-down their collections for broader mass appeal. Scervino has established a strong, recognizable aesthetic that is strong on luxury and feminity, something to be valued rather than thrown away at the end of a season. One doesn’t typically find Ermanno Scervino pieces at the thrift store for good reason.

One of the most impressive things about this season’s collection is how Ermanno can take a very understated earth-tone palette and turn it into something dramatic. There are no bright, flashing colors here. Even the pastel pink and blue are muted. The loudest thing we see is a red fern print on white, and even that stops well short of eye-popping. He’s kept the colors very quiet in this collection and it works with the feminine silhouettes of his pieces.

We’ve seen a lot of casual looks this season, and even a trend toward urban and street looks. Scervino runs exactly the opposite direction. Following the show, adjectives such as glamorous, sophisticated, classic, and romantic were being thrown about by almost everyone in attendance. With so much over-the-top costuming, such as Moschino, and brand confusion, such as this morning’s Roberto Cavalli, it was quite nice to finally see a collection that was well styled, well put together, and didn’t give the impression that being elegant is a bad thing.

Elegant may actually be the best word to describe what we see here. There’s an abundance of carefully crafted lace, copious amounts of silk and satin, tulle, chiffon, and even a bit of organza here and there. There are a few pieces bathed in sequins, but that element is limited and kept well within the realm of tastefulness when used.

Silhouettes are, for the most part, fitted. We see a lot of high-waist pencil skirts and starched blue/white pinstripe button-down blouses with brooches at the top. There are some gorgeous strapless dresses for that evening out with a special friend, well-appointed suits for the  strong business women, and sophisticated yet seductive pieces for those late nights. Scervino tosses one odd jumper into the mix, but even that is styled well enough to maintain a sense of sophistication.

With there being so much on runways that leaves one scratching their heads, it is quite nice to see a beautiful, soft, and well-composed collection such as this one. Women with good taste know how to shop well and this collection is the reason Scervino is at the top of their list.

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