LFW: PETER PILOTTO S/S 2016

Peter Pilotto S/S16
Peter Pilotto S/S16

The weather has turned quite sour in London this afternoon, which surprises no one really, but does tend to affect moods and such. Given that, it was good to walk indoors for Peter Pilotto’s presentation and see bright netting like that found in soccer and other sporting goals. The device was simple enough, but did a good job not only communicating a sense of sportiness but also brightening up the afternoon a bit.

Imagine, if you will, that it’s next spring and you need to attend some outdoor sporting match of the amateur variety, maybe for a beau or a child, perhaps a niece or a nephew. You don’t want to dress in your most formal outfit to be sure. The issue is that after the match you are going out to dinner with friends, or perhaps that same beau, and you don’t want to look as though you’ve been on the playground all afternoon. Whatever shall you wear? That seems to be the question that Pilotto is answering with this collection.

There are 35 pieces to this collection, all very springy and light and full of ruffles and bare shoulders, but done in muted pastels so that, while colorful, they don’t shout or distract one’s attention, at least not without a bit of help from the wearer. These are very cute, very sporty pieces that are light-weight and attractive, easy enough to wear all day if necessary without being horribly inappropriate for most any setting.

What you’ll want to pay attention to, though, are the separates that, at first glance, look like a blouse and skirt ensemble. They’re not. Those would be pants with just about the broadest silhouette I’ve seen. Understand, these aren’t “fat” pants for those days you can’t fit into your jeans. Pilotto has brilliantly re-designed kulots in a way that allows them to look oh so very much like skirts. There wasn’t a person in attendance that didn’t have to take a second or third glance as models walked by. Not everyone caught what was going on. These pants are the brilliant resolution between sporty casual and casually formal. You can easily go from the ballfield to dinner, looking sharp for both and inappropriate for neither. These aren’t your mother’s kulots and I’ve not seen anything like them in any other collection.

The rest of the joy here is in the detailing, the little touches that make all the differences between paying $35 for a knock-off at H&M versus $500 for the real thing. Pilotto uses a lot of geographic shaped embellishments, sometimes in the most passive of places such as belt loops or along the hem of a blouse pocket. He’s very careful with his sewing, and while he doesn’t go overboard he gives a lot of attention to seams and closures, and extremely neat stitching in his embroidery.

Sadly, the diversity on Pilotto’s runway left a lot to be desired. There were only two non-caucasian models and even though they both made two appearances that still doesn’t make up for the lack of diversity in casting. Pilotto’s is a small enough operation that I have difficulty blaming casting agents, either, though that is always possible. We really need to push for a higher level of diversity on these runways.

Still, you are going to want to check out those pants. They could very well become a significant part of your spring/summer wardrobe.

More from charles i. letbetter

PFW: DIOR S/S 2016

400,000 delphinium, aka bluebells. Not those false things you pick up at...
Read More