LFW: SIMONE ROCHA S/S 2016

Simone Rocha S/S 2016
Simone Rocha S/S 2016

The afternoon hasn’t gone quite as well as I had hoped, but I will say that at least the shoes from the past couple of shoes have gotten a bit less life-threatening. That’s a plus, right? In fact, the clear plastic sandals worn in this Simone Rocha show were almost cute, sort of, in that they-look-good-after-a-pedicure sort of way. After being worn a few times, I see them at the bottom of the discount bin. Still, she didn’t have to worry about her models falling off or out of them.

I should probably mention right up front that Ms. Rocha is extremely pregnant at the moment. That may explain to some degree why this is a very dress-centric collection and that many of those dresses are variations on simple shifts and frocks that are loose fitting and easy to wear, even if one has an extra person forcibly expanding their dress size. From the whole collection, there are only two pantsuits and two slacks under dresses ensembles. Other than that, everything has a skirt and, despite at times being rather opulent and decorative, seems to be relatively easy to wear. The exception to that might be the rhinestone sprinkled hose that showed up for only a single look.

All the fabrics are light to the point that even the prints are more sheer than one might expect. One will need to either keep a collection of slips and camisoles on hand, or be happy with the nipple exposure. There is a cross-your-heart theme that runs through much of the collection, and at times that seems to contrast with the lightness of the dress fabric. On some of the earlier pieces, the heavy-knit rope-like decoration looks as though it should be carrying something heavy at the end, but they’re not.

While some of the dresses are extremely simple, others are quite formal with padded shoulder decorations and puffy pockets. Others have dramatically asymmetrical hems and still others look as though rope netting was tossed over a tulle tunic. The looks are frequently different, to be sure, but not necessarily unattractive. Look at them frequently enough and one sees the creativity and detail Simone has put into these pieces. Yes, it does take more than one look, but the beauty is definitely there.

Sadly, diversity on this runway totally sucks and there’s absolutely no excuse for that. In fact, this is one of the most pale-looking runways I can remember seeing. In fact, there were more practically translucent gingers than there were ethnic models. There was ONE model of Asian heritage and the rest were as white as the underside of a beached whale. I’m generous giving this runway a one on our scale of ten.

Simone Rocha is a wonderful designer and there are some very wonderful dresses here. The look is quite British, to be sure, but not in a bad way at all. Definitely worth some consdieration.

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