NYFW: CALVIN KLEIN S/S 2016

Calvin Klein S/S 2016
Calvin Klein S/S 2016

With NYFW in danger of ending on a rather pathetic whimper, Frank Costa apparently decided that we should at least be comfortable. We saw a lot of pajama wear for fall/winter about a year or so ago, but Costa decided to bring it back for spring/summer. If the weather next spring is as slow to transition as it was this year, we all may want a few pieces from this collection, though one has to wonder just how acceptable they might be around the office.

Actually, the silhouettes that Costa employs aren’t exactly like the pajamas one might normally wear to bed. We see plenty of masculine tailored tux jackets, crossing pieces, deep necklines, and even some sequins and feathers. What gives us the bedtime aesthetic is that almost everything is made of silk. Waistlines are slung low on the hip, cuts are full and comfortable, and there are plenty of loose ribbons for tying things together.  Put that with casually toned shoes and there are only a few pieces in the entire collection that look as though  they wouldn’t be appropriate for cuddling up with a good book on a rainy Sunday. Even with the few pieces that aren’t silk, such as a very creative loose-knit sweater, the look keeps that casual, just-rolled-out-of-bed feeling.

Franco falls way short when it comes to runway diversity, with only 6 of 40 models being non-caucasian. There’s no good reason for that with a collection like this. We’re going to give the designer a two out of ten on our scale and hope that they do much better next season.

Beyond that, there’s really nothing much worth discussing. The collection is pretty, casual, and contemporary. Will women actually step out in something that so seriously looks like lingerie? I’m not so sure. Done right, it’s a cool look. Done wrong, though, especially without hair and makeup, and these looks go trashy quickly.

Maybe London will do better.


Photo credit: Gianni Pucci
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