NYFW: JEREMY SCOTT S/S 2016

Jeremy Scott S/S 16
Jeremy Scott S/S 16

This has, so far, been one of those days where the fashion I’ve seen passing before me hasn’t been particularly inspiring. Sure, the schedule’s been full, but what we’ve seen has been so predictable that I’ve caught myself napping in the middle of shows more than once. Considering how short the presentations are, that’s really not a good thing to have happen. Even worse, I didn’t get the impression that I’d actually missed anything during the nap. Not every day is a winner.

So, along comes Jeremy Scott, right smack in the middle of a warm afternoon, a time quite ripe for napping. Down some coffee, pop a couple of curiously strong mints, and try to keep your eyes propped open. The lights go down, you take a deep breath and, oh look, Barbie™ dolls from the early 1960s, big hair, bright colors, and totally plastic. Are we surprised? Not in the least. This is exactly the type of over-the-top presentation we expect from Scott, right down to the tall hair looking as though it may fall off the model’s head at any moment. It’s sad when even Jeremy Scott is predictable. That’s not saying his collection wasn’t different, but that certain kind of tongue-in-cheek, tossing a finger at the mainstream different is what this designer does.

All the plastic and sequins and campiness means that one has to pay careful attention. It’s easy to dismiss collections like this, but slow down and pay attention and there are some very cool ideas running through here. Take another gulp of coffee and try to stay awake.

For starters, pay attention to the screen printed pieces. They’re separates and scattered through the show, but every one of them is a winner. Of course, that’s the kind of thing one only needs a single piece in their wardrobe, so you’re going to have trouble choosing which one. Good luck. Don’t be afraid to steal the sweatshirt the male model is wearing, either.

Then, there are the pieces with the cartoon faces. Oh, come on, don’t pretend you didn’t see those and giggle inside at least once. I would be tempted to toss someone in the one with the blue dress just to watch the expressions of people when they see it. These pieces have instant entertainment written all over them and are going to be loads of fun if one is out with friends for the evening.

Those who fans of pop and/or abstract art are going to like several of these ensembles as well. There’s a variety that channels the pop art movement and this is one time where Scott’s menswear may actually be better suited for some of the patterns than are the women’s pieces. Either way, these would be perfect ensembles for an art stroll or anywhere your artsy friends are likely to hang out.

Let me reiterate: the entire collection is about as campy as one can possibly be.  I was especially amused by the handbag that resembles an old portable television. I’m not sure how practical some of the pieces are, but they’ll look good in a museum one day.

On our diversity scale, Jeremy scores a 7 out of 10, something else that’s not surprising. His runway is full of color in every sense of the word, which makes us happy.

I’m not generally a huge Jeremy Scott fan, personally, but on a day when I’m having difficulty keeping my eyes open, he did a fantastic job of giving us a moment of  entertainment and actually giving us reasons to smile a bit.


Photo credit:  Yannis Vlamos
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