MFW: SALVATORE FERRAGAMO A/W 2015

Salvatorre Ferragamo A/W 2015. Photo credit: Marcus Tondo / Indigitalimages.com

The evolution of Ferragamo continued this afternoon as Massimiliano Giornetti presented a collection heavy on geometric patterns that produced clear lines and feminine silhouettes while directing the brand toward more simple, less complicated looks. Inspired by a 1930s Lucio Venna drawing that was part of an advertisement for the brand, Giornetti delivers a sophisticated look reminiscent of an old glamor with a decidedly modern approach to texture.

This is the second collection we’ve seen this morning that is 100% dresses or skirt/top separates. There are no pants, no jumpsuits, and in this case not even a hem above the knee at any point. Luxurious in its use of leather, furs, and crushed velvet, this is a wardrobe for a more refined woman, one whose list of daily activities include charity teas, luncheons with Senators, and exclusive dinners rather than doing laundry and trips to Wal-Mart.

What one notices is the off-center fastening, buttons pulled far to the left and then angled down diagonally. This gives a more feminine shape to pieces that would otherwise have a more straight-lined minimalist look. Giornetti also uses a very unique belt, one that looks as though it were hand tied but isn’t, to give his dresses shape. The belts appear in nearly half the ensembles, with tailoring bring the primary factor in the other half. Giornetti is still bringing a minimalist influence to the design but hasn’t lost the Italian heritage of the house DNA. There’s no question these are Italian dresses.

Ponchos make a very strong comeback in this collection, with the length coming across the arms rather than front and back. Ponchos are designed to match the ensemble so that the whole look flows as though it were a single piece, which means one loses the strongest effect of the poncho when wearing it with anything other than the ensemble to which it was assigned.

What really stands out, though, are the geometric shapes that were almost background pieces in Venna’s drawing but come dramatically to the forefront in an impressive display of color blocking the likes of which we’ve not seen in several seasons. Playing strongly within that winter palette of burnt orange, blue, yellow and white, the pieces are wonderful examples of graphic design in fashion. Pieces are cleverly crafted together so that the ensemble has an illusion of magnifying body shapes and contours even when they barely exist.

Shoes are, of course, exquisite even if a little surprising to be open-toed in the winter, and handbags are  politely stylish and demure, which means one will have to take care to not forget where their purse was laid own.

Ferragamo is a brand too rich for most and collections like this emphasize why. With such deep and luxurious line and fabrics, the ordinary woman may find the collection somewhat intimidating. Don’t be afraid, the polish is soft and it does one good to shine on occasion.

 

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