MFW: BLUMARINE A/W 2015

Blumarine
Blumarine A/W 2015. Photo credit: Gio Staiano

This morning started much earlier than my eyes would have liked. After yesterday, where Fendi went minimalist, Prada was pretty, and Moschino actually made sense in a few places, my eyes and my brain could have used a slightly longer break. But, there are definitely much worse ways to start one’s Friday than with Anna Molinari’s Blumarine label. Blumarine never fails to excite and entice and Molinari delivers with an eye toward trends but always with a thoroughly modern and highly glamorous twist.

All the aspects of a typical Blumarine collection were in place this morning. There were plunging necklines, short dresses and skirts, pieces that were dangerously sheer, exquisite bead work, and plenty of roses. I can’t imagine there being a reasonably Blumarine season without those aspects being right there in the middle of everything.

What was different this season was more of an effort to stay warm, something with which Molinari has not always concerned herself for these autumn/winter collections. Right from the start, she leads with a rather sporty-looking fur coat over a wool sweater with an extremely large cow neck. That heavy sweater hangs around for several looks, even paired with more lightweight pieces such as an embellished tulle skirt. Staying warm gets serious about a third of the way in with a calf-length leather coat with a very broad fur collar and trim. So help me, given the size of most models, the coat may almost weigh as much as they do!

Colors stay more on the burnished side of things, playing to that trend toward brown and copper we’ve seen this season. The looks aren’t as dark as last year, by any stretch, and the rose pieces are almost bright, they’re so sparkly! Midst the metallics and lace, look for a set of embroidered geometric prints in both black and taupe. There are only three or four pieces that use the material, but it really stands out from the rest of the collection in a most exciting way.

There is just the slightest nod to 70s silhouettes, but what one is likely to find more interesting is the way Molinari uses simple gathering at the waist and shoulders to create dramatic effects. She’s careful to not overdo anything, which is one of her strengths, but the finer touches are where she really shines.

Blumarine continues to be among my favorite labels and this collection only solidifies its place on my list of wardrobe necessities. Everyone needs something exciting for a night out and there’s no better choice than Blumarine.

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