People in London are still talking about Bora Aksu’s Spring/Summer show last season. Specifically, they’re talking about that blue veiled piece that immediately captured the attention of every editor, bride, and fashionista in the Western Hemisphere and beyond. The look was impressive and set up a tremendous amount of buzz this morning for what might come next.
Bora didn’t disappoint. This is London, after all, and creativity and innovation are much more heavily expected and welcomed here than it is in New York. In fact, with two shows prior to this one, we’ve already seen more innovative design in London than we did all week in New York. So, what does Aksu do? He plays to last season’s popular piece by opening with a field of blue, a cropped tuxedo jacket with a panelled midi skirt under a sheer layer. The look was dramatic and simple at the same time.
Overall, this collection was a study in contrasting textures, though. Not in the sense of leather against fur, which we saw several times last week, but more like complete opposites, such as fishnet against chiffon. Organza set against knits. Incredibly detailed spiderweb knits over chiffon. All through the collection, there was a strong hard vs. soft theme taking place that did not relent even with the final piece mixing black and grey with the spiderweb knit over sheer black, worn by one of Britain’s most popular models, Laura Whitmore.
Colors ran the gamut from blue to peach to tan to black. Some hems were short to mid-thigh while there were plenty of pencil skirts well below the knee. For all the incredible innovation, especially with those amazing spiderweb overlays, the collection is very accommodating for a variety of styles and occasions, from casual to formal without dramatically altering the general aesthetic.
This is another collection that is going to have London tongues wagging, hopefully to the point that US retailers take note and start carrying some of the clothes. One shouldn’t have to rely on online shopping for clothes of this caliber. Aksu sets a high bar for so early in the week. It will be fun to see if others match it.