NYFW: ANNA SUI F/W 2015

Anna Sui
Anna Sui F/W 2015. Photo credit: Gianni Pucci / Indigitalimages.com

Anna Sui brought cupcakes. Even the photographers standing in line got one. So, before the first model set down in a makeup chair, this Anna Sui collection was a hit among those who work the hardest during fashion week.   But then, that’s just the kind of person Anna Sui is; giving to her community, always ready with a smile.

However, Anna Sui is stuck in the 70s. Granted, this season’s looks weren’t as much of a mind trip as last season’s bell bottoms and afros, but this makes at least the fourth straight season that she’s gone with some modified bohemian look, heavy with knits and crochet, careful to make sure everyone knows she’s using faux fur, not the real thing. Anna Sui has embraced the earth-friendly crowd with her designs and they are quite actively embracing her back.

For fall/winter 2015, Ms. Sui gives the boho look a bit of a Nordic twist, with crocheted hats and boots topped with faux fur and even some recognition of Siberian/Eskimo tribal looks. On the latter, Pat McGrath’s minimal use of henna-like drawings on models’ foreheads really completed the looks in a way we can only hope catches on (though, I have to admit, the look only works when the person applying it knows what they’re doing). At times, the accessories even got a bit whimsical with knitted caps shaped like Viking helmets, complete with horns and braids. Go ahead, you know you want one right now.

Ms. Sui employees a lot of textured fabrics throughout this collection, continuing her love for jacquard and chiffon combinations as well as patchwork coats and textured lace. She also works in a printed bamboo fabric that should appeal to the sustainable apparel crowd. Combined with the usual array of knits (I just imagine Anna either knitting or crocheting every available moment), this is a very tactile collection that endears itself to wearers, holding back the unfriendly elements of the season.

There are myriad reasons to, once again, love what Anna Sui has done with her bohemian and tribal influences. Certainly, this is what the music festival crowd should be wearing during the off season or any time the temperatures turn a bit chilly. While the audience may be a bit niche, clothes this popular will last a lifetime.

Now, I need a cupcake.

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