NYFW: PAMELLA ROLAND F/W 2015

Pamella Roland
Pamella Roland F/W 2015. Photo credit: Frazer Harrison/Getty Images

Pamella Roland could be seen backstage prior to her show with her little dog, Manolo. The dog is cute and posed for more than a few pictures. However, when I say that Manolo almost stole the Pamella Roland show this afternoon, I’m not talking about the dog. No, it was those Manolo Blahnik over-the-knee boots that generated the oh-my-god gasps with a sense of, “Why hasn’t anyone thought of this before?” surprise.

Actually, I can’t say for certain that no one has done boots with formal wear before. I’m not that old and I don’t necessarily hit a lot of the shows that focus more on red carpet apparel. Still, the look was different for Ms. Roland and had an astonishing effect on the looks that came down the runway, looks that harkened a bit back to early 1970s Paris without making one feel that we were seeing a retro or vintage collection. No, Ms. Roland does a wonderful job of keeping her looks fresh and contemporary even while inferring silhouettes of the past.

Last season, I went on and on about how Pamella Roland’s gowns seemed to float down the runway. She takes quite a turn this season with a collection that stays much closer to the body, not to the extent that it’s suffocating, but even with the wedding gown-styled piece at the end, complete with white feathered capelet around the shoulders, there’s a more narrow silhouette throughout this line, one that is less noise, and more action.

As if to emphasize this more narrow look, there are a number of jumpsuits in this collection. No, I’m not kidding. And yes, Ms. Roland makes them appropriately sexy and formal, to the point that on more than one occasion I didn’t realize at first glance that the piece wasn’t a well-tailored dress. The legs flare and move sufficiently to somewhat disguise the silhouette.

Colors were seasonally appropriate jewel tones in violet and blue with nice browns accenting the palette. Embellishments that are necessary for such a collection do a good job of enhancing without looking gaudy. Strips of sheer across sparkling bodices are incredibly sexy without being too terribly revealing.  If one has any event even the slightest bit formal, this is the collection to watch.

Still, those boots with those gowns. The aesthetic is inescapable, one of those looks that lingers long after it has left the room. So it’s not a look that floats down the runway; I’m okay with that. Pamella Roland’s Fall/Winter 2015 collection is still the very definition of grace, beauty, and glamor.

With or without a fuzzy little dog.

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