NYFW: DKNY F/W 2015

DKNY
DKNY F/W 2015. Photo credit: Regis Colin Berthelier

Donna Karan loves New York; that is something we’ve known for several years. Every once in a while she tries to find a new way of expressing her appreciation for the uniqueness of the city and for this season she did that by asking New Yorkers to tweet what they like about New York. Those tweets then became the backdrop for her fall/winter 2015 collection. Phrases such as “NY IS HOME,” “NY is THE GREATEST CITY IN THE WORLD,” and fashion blogger Bryan Boy’s words, “NY IS THE ULTIMATE CITY IN THE WORLD WHERE ANYONE REGARDLESS OF WHO THEY ARE OR WHERE THEY CAME FROM CAN MAKE SOMETHING FOR THEMSELVES,” were like an ever-changing white neon sign illuminating the stage.

Deep jewel tones dominate her junior-oriented line for this fall, which is a nice change from a lot of the black and taupe we’ve been seeing on runways. The opening looks were Ms. Karan’s usual tan and grey but enhanced with blue, then red, then a beautiful electric purple. We kept seeing these colors pop up as embellishments throughout the collection, a tactic that went a long way in preventing the presentation from being boring.

Turtlenecks are a huge look for Ms. Karan, and she frequently has them reaching so high that anyone who has a shorter neck is likely to find them going all the up to their eyes. Sleeves are also oversized, which is a pretty strong trend, and skirts were sometimes so asymmetrical as to feel a bit lopsided.

Ms. Karan also jumps on the men’s styling bandwagon for some of her looks, especially in suits where such a look actually makes sense. Common sense feminine tailoring avoids that boxy feeling one gets from several other designers, though, making these pieces one can actually wear without someone questioning whose closet you raided.

Overcoats are huge, rounded, and a bit minimalistic, which is again a trend we’re seeing interestingly enough more from female designers. I think women designers are perhaps more sensitive to the degree which clothes bunch up and wrinkle under coats that are too small.

Makeup was the one curious point, with eyes outlined well outside the socket. Don’t repeat this look. Ever.

More than a few people noted that this collection takes a welcome break from the urban styling of the past two seasons. The New Yorkers represented here are more professional, perhaps even upwardly mobile. With sharp looking clothes like this, New York is already a more beautiful place to be.

 

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