NYFW: DIANE VON FURSTERNBERG F/W 2015

DVF
Diane von Furstenberg F/W 2015 Photo credit: Yannis Vlamos / Indigitalimages.com

Prior to today’s show, Diane von Furstenberg spun a tale in her design notes of a woman who is a double agent: all business by day, alluring femme fatal by night. “Seductive” is how she describes the fall/winter 2015 and she delivers on a look that builds off her iconic wrap dress in multiple variations. By the end of the show, DVF had succeeded in seducing everyone in her audience with a set of looks that could heat New York all on their own.

Day looks start with the wrap dress in winter white, easily the most simple look for the collection. We’re not too far in before we begin seeing more masculine silhouettes with pinstripes and collars that become ties loosened and hanging around the neck. Floral prints are also really strong through this part of the collection and provide an array of color against black backgrounds. Sleeves of sheer chiffon accompany a number of the looks. Most of the dresses are light enough to work most any time of year were it not for a clearly cold-weather palette.

Along the way, there’s a shearling coat, sweaters of confetti tweed, and a mink sweatshirt just rather stuck in the middle of everything because … uhm … well … because.

Evening wear is instant more seductive as both neck and back lines plunge dangerously low and lace becomes the dominant fabric. Red is the color that dominates, but a full-length wrap dress with blue and pink cherry blossom print may have actually been the most alluring piece on the runway. DVF tries very hard to make rompers sexy as well, and a couple of them almost come close, but at the end of the day they’re still rompers and there’s just so far one can push that silhouette. Tuxedo looks and incredibly daring black lace go much further when it comes to raising blood pressure.

The soundtrack to the movie 50 Shades of Grey played as models made their finale walk and most in the audience seemed to think that was an appropriate choice. Certainly, this is the sexiest collection we’ve seen from the label in quite a while, and it’s good to see DVF playing up that side with a sense of humor. She manages to bring clothes that are sexy without crossing over the line into sexy.

If there’s a challenge here it is that the collection plays into current popular culture, one that may very well fade and even grow a bit distasteful as critics continue panning the movie. Will shoppers remember in September how excited they were in February? Fortunately, I think the styles stand solidly on their own even without the media connection. This is a strong collection that stands to do extremely well.

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