NYFW: JASON WU F/W 2015

Jason Wu
Jason Wu F/W 2015. Photo credit: Guillame Roujas

Fans of clean lines, masculine silhouettes, and broad fur collars are going to love this season’s Jason Wu collection. With gently sweeping curves, dresses with leg slits going to dizzying heights, and a brass-toned stiletto that caught everyone’s eye, this line was a best-seller the moment it hit the runway, something Wu is starting to experience on a regular basis.

Clean lines and elegance are not new to this brand. Wu knows how to dress a woman for a special occasion so as to make her stand out without being visually aggressive. His fantastic sense of styling continues to mature and grow, and if anything it seems to be a slightly older woman he’s dressing this season though there’s still plenty of appeal across the board.

What’s different from last season is a clear absence of prints. You won’t find a single one in this collection. While not all the looks are head-to-toe monochrome, Wu does stay within a fairly tightly defined color palette that starts with the same military green as found in Marine Corp. uniforms and with the exception of a handful of red pieces stays to the darker side of the color wheel. He makes up for the lack of print with an abundance of texture. Not only is there plenty of  fur being thrown around, but velvet, silk, and stamped leather all factor into the fabric choices.

Where looks are the most obviously masculine is in the suits, which this season come with overly-broad collars, often trimmed in heavy fur.  Given the season, the look is appropriate though one has to wonder if the pieces might grow a bit heavy on the shoulders after an hour or so. There is some sheer black lace on the more feminine side of things, and the neckline occasionally wanders rather low, something he avoided last fall/winter.

Another big change was the fact that for the first time Wu allowed his models to wear their hair down. The style is interesting, held close to the scalp then flaring out about the neckline, a look reminiscent of someone who wore a hat for a while before entering the building.

Pattern readers will delight in knowing Grace Hartzell was the second model down the runway this afternoon, and with Karlie Kloss not terribly far behind her the show had a solid Midwestern representation.

Jason Wu grew up a lot the past two seasons and now seems to be settling into a rhythm that is consistent both in terms of style and quality. With collections like this, his brand is only going to continue to grow. We can look forward to seeing what he’s going to do next.

More from charles i. letbetter

MFW: FRANCESCO SCOGNAMILIO F/W 2014

I’ll be very honest: I’m still sitting here trying to figure out...
Read More