PFW: VIKTOR AND ROLF S/S 2015

Viktor and Rolf understand that your life is busy. Too busy, perhaps. They understand that there are situations where you just don’t have the time to change your entire outfit. You want to be able to just toss on a different top, or wrap a skirt, or slip this over that, and then run out the door. They also understand you don’t have time to bother with ironing. For those people, they have created the perfect collection. For everyone else, hey, you were wanting to be a little more casual with your life anyway, weren’t you?

From the design team that brought you variations on a bath towel last season (I’m not kidding) comes a new take on couture sportswear. I have to add the “couture” part in there because with all the ruffles and gathers and folds and cuts, there’s no way this comes off as you’re run-of-the-mill ready-to-wear. Some of the silhouettes in this collection are so very complicated I’m still trying to figure out where they start and end. For example, there is an all-white look that rather closely resembles a tennis dress. The length of the skirt is about right, the top is sufficiently fitted, and if one really needed to run from the tennis court to tea with a friend, this dress would absolutely work. Wear it on the tennis court, though, and your opponent is going to be puzzled because there are extra straps and the skirt’s a bit full and … you just won the match because they were still looking at your dress and didn’t see the ball go by.

Yet, for all the elegant construction and brilliant design, many of the looks are paired with biker shorts! Biker shorts! No, that’s not a new look this season, but when we’ve seen the biker shorts before the top looks were significantly more restrained, more fitted, carefully tailored. Here, the tops are wonderful, elegant and large. There are ruffles and gathers and structure and construction materials to the point one almost needs a hard hat to watch this show safely. To put biker shorts under all that rather leaves one gasping.

No, not all the looks have biker shorts. Some have jogging pants. Others have very casual slacks. Some were dresses so who knows if there’s anything under there at all? We know the boys like to have fun with their collections and their very sarcastic sense of humor plays heavily into their designs. This is why they do separates so very well; Viktor and Rolf like to create clothes that give women a world of choices, options varied enough to fit their wide ranging and often hectic lifestyles.

Colors fall on the lighter and more subtle side of things this season, with lots of powder blues, bright yellows (a lot  of bright yellow) and very pale pink. Prints have a cute floral pattern to them, but the majority of the collection is in solids with a high number of monochrome looks. Hemlines run mid-thigh or higher and the majority of pants/leggings are quite tight, as one might expect. Tops needs a lot more room, though, and if a closet isn’t very deep some pieces might not fit.

Once again, Viktor and Rolf mix myrth and merriment with a bit of stylistic genius, happily obliterating the line between casual and couture. Maybe you buy one of these ensembles and keep it in the car for emergencies. You never know when you’ll come across a random formal event without time to run home and change. You’re busy; it could happen.

Photo credit: Marcus Tondo

Tags from the story
, ,
More from charles i. letbetter

MFW: DOLCE & GABBANA A/W 2015

I’m not sure I’ve ever described a women’s ready-to-wear line as cute,...
Read More