PFW: TSUMORI CHISATO S/S 2015

How can one not like a fashion show where the set is comprised of white pinwheels or a cotton candy colored background? Such was the scene coming into Tsumori Chisato’s spring/summer 2015 collection this morning. Everything was so very bright, so very cheerful, and since this was the third show of the morning, most everyone was awake enough to enjoy the mood.

Tsumori Chisato is the second Japanese designer we see today and one who is known as much for her paintings as she is her clothes. The prints are all original works of art and she then builds the clothes around them. So, effectively, this is wearable art.

For this spring/summer season, Chisato goes very bright, with primary colors on a white canvas. The look is extremely unique, a garden setting perhaps. I couldn’t help but think that if the late Theodor Geisel, aka Dr. Seuss, had designed clothes, they might look a little bit like this. There’s even a broad black and white striped dress late in the collection that is extremely reminiscent of a certain cat wearing a specific chapeau.  The prints are almost all lively and bright (there is one black/blue piece that’s a bit dark) and delightfully cover not only the clothes, but extend to the accessories, including the shoes.

Silhouettes themselves are not terribly unusual, though on occasions she embellishes with a special fold here or there. We see a number of tunics, A-lines, shift dresses, pleated skirts, shorts and baby doll tops. If anything stands out, it is the ruffles. Lots and lots and lots of ruffles playfully arranged. The best has to be a large layered crepe ruffle right at the neck that looks so very much like a flower just about to bloom. A few over-sized flowers toward the end just might be a bit overwhelming is the person wearing them is too terribly small, but the majority are extremely wearable.

Chisato delivers a very young look. A number of the hemlines are well above the knee and the overall cut favors a more youthful figure. However, there are some longer dresses in the mix as well and those could work just as well for a woman of 80 as one of 18. One will want to check out the cape coat in the middle of the collection as well. There is nothing remotely daring, but that doesn’t stop the looks from being very fresh and modern. While the collection always enjoys strong popularity across Japan, there’s a lot here to appeal to Western sensibilities as well.

Tsumori Chisato has created a collection that captures the very essence of joy and color of spring. Wearing a piece of art has never been more fun.

Photo credit: Regis Colin Berthelier

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