PFW: MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA S/S 2015

Psuedo-celebrities, who shall remain nameless, have brought a bit of cult-like status to Maison Martin Margiela, making it entertaining to watch the fashionably ignorant gush all over social media about how wonderful “Martin” is and how brilliantly creative “Margiela” is this season. Please, don’t tell them that the label is designed by an intentionally anonymous team (of which the founder might be but probably isn’t a part), it makes them easier to avoid. Before anyone starts going in on how they “must have” every single piece in the MMM collection, I have two words for you: body stocking.

There’s fitted, there’s tailored, and then there’s you’re-going-to-have-to-be-sewn-into-that-and-pray-a-seam-doesn’t-burst. This collection would fall into that overly hyphenated category. Thankfully, for the majority of the looks, there is something more reasonable over the top body stockings so presumably one could just skip the ultra-tight part and go with the portion that actually doesn’t make one look like an over-stuffed sausage. Let’s get real for a moment: a couple of these looks were so tight even the model couldn’t make the look hot. Now, if the model can’t pull it off, what makes anyone else think they can? Are we really going to market with this look, team?

However, the pieces over the body stocking are worthy of some excitement. I tend to like the blue pinstripe looks best because they’re a little more dressy and I just have a thing for pinstripe. Fact remains that there are some very well-thought pieces that have the potential to look good regardless of one’s exact body measurements. Especially impressive is the team’s new twist on the wrap skirt with a different method of securing that gives it a more hip-friendly flow. You’re going to want one of those skirts and they’ve done it multiple times in prints and solids (go with the prints, trust me). The better tops come early in the collection, long, loose, and flowing per the trend this season. Again, the floral prints really work with that particular silhouette and it provides enough variation potential to be accessible to a wider variety of women. Later in the collection, the tops go tighter, which almost seems redundant over the body stocking. When one has layered sheer over sheer and still isn’t street legal for the Midwest, there just might be a problem.

One does not want to overlook some lovely detailing, either. There are some embroidered and applique daisies scattered across several pieces that really stand out (and, unfortunately, weren’t captured well by the cameras). Daisies are a big part of the graphic theme for this collection and can be found in the prints as well as hand-painted on the very large-framed sunglasses. While they’re all nice touches, it is the embroidery and applique that really add value.

In all this skin-tight mess, there is one rather interesting moment of counterpoint toward the end of the presentation: a single pair of low-riding, loose fitting jeans. Now, Diesel’s billionaire Renzo Russo bailed MMM out of a tight spot a few years back with a “significant” investment. Could the jeans be a shout out the maison’s financial savior? As with so many questions about this label, we’ll just have to wonder. A more tight-lipped organization doesn’t exist in all of fashion.

Take away the hype, the glam, and the false pretentiousness that others have put on the house, and there really are some fantastic pieces to this collection; pieces that look good on discerning women of various sizes. This whole body stocking thing, though? No, don’t buy it. If you do I will stand on the street, point, and laugh. Some things just need to stay on the shelf.

Photo credit:  Yannis Vlamos

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