PFW: ISABEL MARANT S/S 2015

Sitting here looking back through the pictures of this afternoon’s Isabel Marant show, I am struck by the fact that, despite there being some very strong and discernible trends in this Parisian season, designers here have managed to treat everything in such unique and individual ways that there is no confusion between looks as there was in Milan. I expect this to strongly work in the favor of designers such as Isabel Marant who won’t have to compete with someone showing similar looks from a similar time period.

Having said that, there is a tremendous amount of monochrome black and white in this spring/summer collection. While Marant does manage to include some color in the middle of the presentation, most notably a dusty rose that is quite lovely, even there the hue doesn’t shift a lot from top to bottom. Uniformity pays off, though, as it allows embellishment such as fringe and tassels to blend with the rest of the look, keeping things casual and comfortable.

Wearability is a dominant issue for Isabel. She likes her clothes to be comfortable. As a result, we see silhouettes that are not especially fitted, but neither are they overly loose or baggy. For the most part, Marant prefers a belted look this season. Where there’s not a belt, such uses some other mechanism such as ruffles or peplum to bring in the waist and give the look some shape. There are a couple of tunic dresses that are allowed to stay open, but even those are carefully constructed enough that they don’t wander all over the place.

Important wearability note: I feel pretty comfortable in stating that nothing in this collection is so long or loose as to make it likely to get caught in a car door while wearing it. If you’ve ever had a skirt or dress ruined after being dragged through traffic, you understand how important this issue is.

If there is a surprise here, it is how very short all of Marant’s skirts are this season, coming in four to five inches above the knee. Where there are some attractive pants in the collection as well, a large part of the look for this season centers on the pedestal created by bare legs. This gives many of the looks, especially those with layered ruffles or pleats, a bit of a Grecian aesthetic.

Isabel Mirant’s spring/summer collection isn’t one to be confused with any other designer. Yet, everything here is easy to wear and makes a great addition to any wardrobe.

Photo credit: Marcus Tondo

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