PFW: ROLAND MOURET S/S 2015

Roland Mouret must drink more espresso in the morning than the rest of us. At least, he certainly seemed more energetic and awake, and so does his spring/summer 2015 collection. I’m more accustomed to shades of black and white from Roland. This morning, he starts the day with a bright green. It took my eyes a moment to adjust.

Mouret was actually kind on everyone’s early morning sensibilities. After a couple of green pieces, he kindly retreated to white and then black for a bit to give everyone time to catch their breath. Then, he threw the paint bucket at us. Color blocking like I’ve never seen him do in shade and shapes that are unique and different and, on a couple of occasions, even a bit provocative. Sometimes sporty, sometimes dress, and sometimes a bit busy, Mouret delivers a collection that captures well the freshness and newness of Spring.

Working off classic silhouettes, such as A-line skirting, halter top styling, and fitted but simple separates, Mouret works within shapes that he’s already established to be his favorites. I don’t really see anything from a design perspective that we’ve not seen in some previous incarnation. Yet, that doesn’t mean the looks are boring by any stretch of the imagination. Careful fabric selection (lots of summer suede) and a sliding waistline (sometimes high, sometimes low) keep even the most classic of looks fresh and exciting.

Color is what does all the real work, though. Roland’s approach to color blocking takes on exciting new shapes and means things such as different colored pockets and straps and collars happen on a fairly regular basis. Large shapes with rounding curves connect to other shapes that contrast, compliment, and sometimes just sit right there on top demanding to be noticed.

How does Mouret do floral? He appliques is right there front and center. The flowers are large so that it’s impossible to put more than two on an ensemble without things getting a bit crowded. Yet, that is enough to give the motif a presence and to keep the overall spirit and attitude of the collection rather light and spirited.

More than anything, this collection is tremendously wearable. While there’s a tease of provocation with some of the color blocking, the styles themselves are wholly appropriate for day wear and, depending on where one works, even office wear. Some of the solid-colored dresses toward the end of the collection are great for after 5 dinners, but nothing here is sheer, nothing is too low cut, and chances are it’s only the color that might make or prevent the appropriateness of an ensemble.

Roland Mouret has gotten day three of Paris Fashion Week off to a most lovely and colorful start. Let’s hope what follows can keep us awake as well.

Photo credit: Gio Staiano

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