PFW: GUY LAROCHE S/S 2015

If one came to Paris looking for a Guy Laroche collection that looked too terribly much like last year’s Guy Laroche, one would be rather disappointed.  There are very few similarities between the two collections. So little so that one might even wonder if the same designer is in charge. No worries, though, Marcel Marongiu doesn’t appear to be going anywhere any time soon. Instead, he is continually re-inventing his look and with this season he gives us a collection that is bright, sporty, and definitely a lot more sexy than we’ve seen from this label before.

The Guy Laroche look we saw last year didn’t quite seem to get the gist of spring/summer. The collection was largely black and white with a lot of heavy overcoats in the mix. Silhouettes were more architectural, large, well padded, and Marongiu displayed an affinity toward fringe. Colors ran toward the neutral zone with lots of black, white, and grey only briefly interrupted by gold. Sleeves and hems ran long in a very buttoned up look. But that was last year.

What do we get for spring/summer 2015? Color! Lots and lots of color, starting with red and blue against nude tones that sometimes give one the impression there is less garment than there actually is. The gold is back, but this time accompanied by a very bright, summery yellow. There are also a surprising number of prints in this collection that, while reasonably subtle and refined, still go a long way toward making this a more exciting seasonal collection.

You know all those shoulder pads Marongiu has always liked? They’ve all but disappeared in this collection. In fact, there aren’t an over abundance of sleeves in this season’s garments at all. Instead, we get a lot of spaghetti straps and modified halter tops and even a couple of outright bikini tops tossed into the mix. The shoulder look isn’t completely gone, that just wouldn’t be natural, and there are three very nicely done dress coats slung over the shoulders of models, but this is a lighter, happier collection. Oh, and jumpers! I can’t forget the jumpers, which totally caught me by surprise when I saw them. These are very cute, very sassy, and a lot of sexy.

We also see more tailored looks this year, sometimes in very fitted silhouettes that are quite new to this label and pretty much the exact opposite of the large, structured looks we’ve seen from this maison. Hems are also quite a bit higher and oh, but do some of those necklines go plunging! Add to those looks a lot of mesh and a number of sheer tops and I’m not sure I’ve ever seen a Guy Laroche collection come off as sexy and sporty as this one does.

Marongiu takes this Guy Laroche collection in a decidedly more mainstream, more wearable direction than we’ve seen since he came to the house in 2007. Whether this is primarily a move to grab more market share or an overall change in aesthetic, the look is quite refreshing, very fun, and very sporty. I have a feeling more young women especially will be looking at Guy Laroche for the first time next spring and liking what they see.

Photo credit: Regis Colin Berthelier

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