PFW: ANTHONY VACCARELLO S/S 2015

Let’s play a game, shall we? I mean, this is Anthony Vaccarello we’re talking about, so you already know it’s going to be short, full of leather, and incredibly sexy. You didn’t need me to tell you that. What’s fun about this collection is what’s just a wee bit different for this season. So, let’s do this: take the word Spring, toss in some stripes, and lots of blue. Now, put those in a jar along with some of your favorite AV silhouettes, mix them all together, and then let’s have a taffy pull with them. Are you beginning to get the picture? That’s a bit what this spring/summer collection looks like when one dismantles it down to its basic pieces.

When the first look came down the runway with a printed t-shirt that read, “Anthony Vaccarello Spring Summer 2015,” it just seemed like an interesting way to start the show, rather like putting a title page at the front of a book you’ve already read. Is this Anthony Vaccarello’s spring/summer 2015 show? Why yes, now that you mention it, it is! But this wasn’t just a title placard, it was prime theme on which numerous variations would occur throughout the collection. Sometimes it was as simple as a large A slightly askew in white on a black leather top. Other times it was the word Spring curving along the hem of skirt. Still other times the letters were so large all one really saw were the pieces of letters that played across the fabric like random stripes. Variations? Oh yes, there are plenty!

In addition to being a somewhat literate collection (seriously, it became a game looking for the words in each ensemble), we also saw Anthony give his typical miniskirt a twist by elongating the right side of the skirt and then utilizing a gentle curve along the hem so that the left side was as short, if not maybe a wee bit shorter, as always. This new take on the silhouette was quite refreshing and was one of the things that prevented this from being just another Anthony Vaccarello collection. Here, too, there are plenty of variations as he plays with the material, folds, and gathers on the right side of the skirt.

Then, there are the stripes. Real stripes, mind you, not just the oops-that’s-not-a-stripe thing that happens when one realizes the game he’s playing with the letters. A blue/blue pinstripe, but vertical and horizontal, kind of classes up the joint a bit, pulling the collection away from the stereotypical leather goods and giving it more of a “yeah, I can actually wear this” type of feel. What’s fun, though, is when he takes the stripe concept and uses it as a construction element. My favorite is a would-be strapless dress to which he adds a striped belt over the left shoulder which then intersects with two other belts at strategic places. Are the belts holding the dress together? Could be.

Okay, so the collection is boring on the color spectrum. I think we can deal with that. There are still the plunging, scooped out necklines. There is still plenty of sheer (and he even gets creative with that). There is still plenty of leather and girls who have great legs are still going to look incredible wearing anything from the collection.

Anyone who might have thought Anthony Vaccarello was stuck in some kind of sexy rut, though, would be mistaken. The games he plays with this collection keep it exciting, fun, and contemporary. I mean, really, when was the last time you say the alphabet used as a major design element? Vaccarello does some fascinating work without departing from the DNA for which he is known. This is what makes spring/summer so much fun.

Photo credit: Gio Staiano

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