MFW: TRUSSARDI S/S 2015

Gaia Trussardi was in the unenviable position this afternoon of being the last major runway presentation for this season. I don’t know that I’ve ever seen an audience as anxious for a show to start, and subsequently be over, as they were for this one. Constantly checking watches and cell phones, more than a few were anxious about their flight plans to Paris. Only Italian editors and buyers seemed very relaxed as they waited for the show.

While the Trussardi show followed a disturbing trend this season of starting later than ever, the wait was justified with the clean, sporty line of casual knits Gaia sent down the runway. Starting with a couple of pleasant, roomy trench coats, the looks quickly took on the familiar close-fitting, well tailored look for which the label is known. Sleek as a greyhound is more than just a marketing philosophy here; this season’s clothes strongly follow the brand DNA of refined elegance and careful tailoring.

One has to wonder, given Milan’s obsession with the 70s this past week, if Trussardi isn’t showing us a glimpse of next season with a collection strong on 60s vibes. The low waist lines and lean tops match the Trussardi aesthetic well and this isn’t the first time we’ve seen Gaia play to what was admittedly one of her family’s stronger decades. Short tennis skirts, both in linen and leather, are perfect for showing off long, lean, tan legs. Cropped tops, sporty shirts and cable knit sweaters all hug the body and emphasize its natural curves. There is a strong, organic femininity to Gaia’s sense of styling that plays well throughout the collection, even on the few times when she opts for slightly masculine or minimalist structures.

Not everything is perfect, though. Gaia really seems to like the idea of the one piece knit jumper and does both full length and shorts versions of the look, typically with sweaters or jackets over them. Mind you, these aren’t pieces that button or zip down the front, neither are there straps to be easily unfastened. I’m sure female readers already see the complication: one has to completely undress when going to the restroom. As attractive as these looks might be, and they certainly do look very good, they come up quite short on practicality. For all the jokes made about women having to visit the restroom in pairs, that tactic may be a necessity for anyone wearing one of these jumpers.

Still, this is a very clean and impressive collection. The cardigans and suede jackets are immediately contenders for the must-have list and the frequent use of scarves around the neck are a throwback that’s likely ready for a strong comeback. Trussardi may be reaching into the past for influence, but I have a very strong feeling we’re going to see everyone else copying some of these looks within the next two seasons.

Gaia had hardly finished her bow before people were up and running for the door. While there are some new designer presentations tomorrow, Milan Fashion Week is effectively over. The city can quieten back down for a few weeks before it begins prepping for February. Ciao.

Photo credit: Gio Staiano

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