MFW: JIL SANDER S/S 2015

If there is some sense of repetition in this spring/summer 2015 collection by Rodolfo Paglialunga we can be forgiving of that minor detail. After Jil Sander announced she was retiring from her eponymous label last October, it was six months before Paglialunga was announced as her replacement. From April to September is a rather short time frame in terms of fashion design schedules, so repeating a few looks in different colors is totally excusable.

What Paglialunga brings to the label this season is a more practical and slightly more masculine take on the minimalism for which the label is best known. What one immediately picks up is a school girl aesthetic that Rodolfo artfully carries through the complete set, even into dresses and slightly more casual separates. One might even pick up a bit of a school uniform vibe with the limited palette of burgundy, navy blue, and khaki on which the collection is centered. There are touches of white and black, especially white blouses and black sweaters and jackets, but it is the red and blue combination that dominates most the look.

Men’s tailoring also plays heavily as was expected from Paglialunga. Button down shirts with starched collars, pullover sweaters and vests, rolled up sleeves, and neatly pressed slacks that make a point of not hugging the hips too tightly are mainstays. Rodolfo keeps the Jil Sanders minimalism in the wrap skirts and pads the shoulders in some of the sweaters to give them the rounded feel one expects from the label.

Knee socks made of leather and practical shoes are about the only accessories Rodolfo brings to the collection, which is a bit surprising. One can probably expect that situation to change more as Paglialunga has time to make his influence known deeper in the collection. He does manage to add some sportiness to some of the looks, but at the same time he includes a turtle neck with one that seems completely out of place for this season.

Knits are handled wonderfully well with delightful detailing and there are even a few leather pieces tossed in which holds more appeal in Europe than it does elsewhere. Overall, though, the collection has a very universal quality to it that gives it sufficient market on every continent.

Rodolfo Paglialunga’s first Jil Scott collection is solid, practical, wearable, and sets a reasonable foundation from which he can continue to build. These are good looks with plenty of wear to them. A little repetition here and there is no big thing.

Photo credit: Regis Colin Berthelier

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