MFW: MISSONI S/S 2015

How far can one take the relaxed, casual look and still call it day wear? Missoni really stretches that concept with a spring/summer collection that is full of color and sparkle while taking the comfort idea just as far as she possibly can without getting into pajama wear.

Long and flowing is how this season’s Missoni collection starts and it never strays too far from that silhouette. Full-length maxis come down the runway first and then they only get the tiniest bit shorter with hemlines falling right about mid-calf, a look that is safe to say dominates the season. While the first few looks are unquestionably very lovely casual to semi-formal dresses, beyond that there is a constant flirtation with lounge wear that blurs the line between day and evening, home and public. Complicating the look are silk turbans fashioned in the same way one might wrap their hair after a relaxing shower. [Warning: after watching those turbans constructed back stage, you do not want to try this at home, at least not without some help.] Belted dressing robes and half-tucked pajama tops appear quite often in this relaxed collection. There aren’t any pants in this collection, which in some ways is a relief. A draw string is all it would take to put this firmly in the lingerie catalog.

Color is what makes the clothes exciting. There are precious few solids anywhere in this set. Instead, we are initially greeted with some lovely floral prints before the look shifts to head-to-toe gradients within a specific color palette. The gradient prints have a bit of a rainbow feel to them, but by limiting each one to a specific primary palette the looks are more controlled, refined, and relaxing. Nothing is too terribly bright, nor so soft as to be boring. Touches of metallic thread interwoven here and there give several pieces a bit of shimmer as well, and very carefully selected sheer cutouts in some of the latter dresses given them a bit of a futuristic look that is a nice break.

Missoni plays well into this season’s trend for relaxed and comfortable with the Italian touch of also being bright and colorful. These are pieces that tread that line between being special occasion or every day, daywear or evening, casual or lounge wear. Perhaps the final decision belongs to the person wearing them and how they fit the looks to their personal style. Ms. Missoni has definitely left plenty of space for one’s personal interpretation and  you are free to take these looks whichever direction one might want to go.

Photo credit:   Yanni Vlamos

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