MFW: BLUMARINE S/S 2015

Anna Molinari’s Blumarine label has long been one given to seductive, feminine looks heavy on floral concepts and sheer materials, things that are trending with just about everyone else this season. So, how does she step things up to continually distinguish herself from the rest of the pack? By going more sheer, making the floral 3D, and ramping up the sensuality to a point it matches the summer heat.

Plunging necklines and sheer fabrics are just something one expects from Blumarine. Molinari has never been afraid to show some skin and with sheer trending so significantly this season she certainly doesn’t back off now. I think she would have sent totally sheer dresses and ensembles down the runway if she thought it might actually sell. Her compromise is  applique flowers, large colorful blooms positioned in just the right place to prevent one from being arrested (in most cases). These are especially attractive when they are the most colorful. There are a couple of times when the bordering fabric around the flowers is a little distracting, but overall the effect is eye popping.

Bright floral prints are in abundance as well, repeating the larger bloom concept from the applique. These pieces are at their best on light, wispy pieces of chiffon that flutter and billow as one walks.

While there are certainly plenty of plunging necklines to go around, I was a little surprised at how often Anna opts for a higher option, going with just a gentle scoop gracing the collar bone. The look works, though, paired with shorter skirt lengths that hit about mid-thigh. Silhouettes are typically more fitted, but not to the point of being confining, something which has always been a strong positive factor for the label.

Where this collection is at its best is in the 3D applique of leaves and petals on several of the dresses later in the collection, some even with dewy crystals tossed in. These lovely dresses are like walking gardens and, while this is certainly not the first time we’ve seen this tactic used, it is again the careful positioning, her willingness to precisely place each little piece, that makes all the difference. My only concern with these is that after spending no small amount to purchase one of these lovely dresses, one must be extra careful in maintaining them as well. One bad trip to the dry cleaner and these fragile garments are ruined.

Blues and pinks are heavy in the collection, especially in the more formal pieces, but there is also a surprisingly large number of black and white ensembles this season which is a bit different for this label. Given the trend toward darker tones for this spring, they are welcome additions.

Blumarine makes this season’s trends more beautiful and seductive than ever with a collection that is feminine without being restrictive. What is just a trend for others is a way of life for Blumarine and something Anna Molinari does best.

Photo credit: Gio Staiano

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