MFW: CRISTIANO BURANI S/S 2015

Children’s literature provides a line that, with some minor modification, works quite well in describing this Cristiano Burani spring/summer 2015 collection: “When it was good, it was very good, and when it was bad it was horrid.”

Burani presented a very checkered collection, both literally and figuratively, that has some wonderful concepts and ideas, especially toward the front of the collection. Unfortunately, he took a rather squared turn right in the middle of it all into a set of looks that were completely disjointed from the rest and seemed extremely impractical.

Let’s focus first on the good parts. Black and white checks, both small and large, are where Cristiano begins. He is yet another designer who has taken hold of the very large, very relaxed silhouette and uses that to his advantage with many of these looks that might not have fared so well were they more fitted. Cropped tops were, in some cases, so large as to rather hang on the thin models. Of course, your experience may vary. Slacks and culottes were the real winners here as legs were extremely full and flowing; these are pieces that are going to provide tremendous comfort on days that are warm and humid but where shorts or skirts might not be appropriate. Pleated skirts that sat very low on the hip were surprisingly attractive as well. This is not always an easy look, depending on how the waist band is constructed, but Burani does it quite well and the skirts look wonderful every time they appear.

The whole checkered thing is a rather nice touch. Where he pairs larger checks with micro checks can sometimes be a bit tentative as the micro checks change position while one is moving, creating a blurred line effect that is a bit rough on the eyes. The black and white looks are most numerous, but when in brings in some colored touches, especially lemon yellow, toward the end the look is quite pleasant and invokes a strong sense of spring.

What doesn’t work is anything brown. I seriously don’t know what Cristiano might have been thinking when he designed this portion of the collection. Perhaps he had just received a large shipment of potatoes and didn’t know what to do with the bags. Perhaps he started out wanting to design a tent, given the pieces are mostly nylon, and simply became confused. Whatever the issue was, the pieces are so bad that I genuinely hope they do not make it into production. One dress even looks as though it has a large potato sack attached to the front of it. No matter how thin a young woman might be, does she really want something like that dangling in front of her? No, I don’t think so.

Most the men’s looks don’t work especially well, either, not even the checks. What looked good on the women didn’t transfer to the men’s wear. Instead, it looked forced, campy, and more than a bit cheesy.

Christiano Burani does checks very well, but misses on the balance with solids. Pick and choose wisely, children. I think the good choices are going to be obvious.

Photo credit: Gio Staiano

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