MFW: BLUGIRL S/S 2015

Blugirl is the “little sister” label to Blumarine, both designed by Anna Molinari. Most seasons, one could easily get the impression that Blugirl was significantly younger, more innocent, and more careful about how she dressed. This has often been the label I would recommend to parents of a 14 or 15 year old girl who needed a nice dress for a special occasion such as a music recital or religious ritual. Always with a touch of sweetness and very focused on being pretty, Blugirl has always been a “safe” collection.

Not this season . Blugirl has been listening to something a bit harder than Bach minuets and is intent on exploring her alternatives whether Mommy and Daddy like it or not. There are no Sunday School dresses here. In fact, these are the looks I imagine one might stuff in the bottom of a backpack to put on later when parents aren’t watching quite so close.

From the very outset we see ensembles with significantly shorter skirts, tops layered with contrasting shirts, lots of sequins, camisole tops, shirts tied around the waist, and blouses so sheer that little bras are suddenly very visible underneath. For what I believe is the first time ever for Blugirl, there was actually an exposed nipple. Just what kind of trouble is this little girl finding for herself?

Now, before mum and dad get too worried, it’s worth noting that a lot of the “bad girl” attitude comes in the styling. Take away the shirt tied at the waist, the embellished pieces of leather accessories, and the studded ankle boots and suddenly the looks get a lot more palatable, for the most part. There are lovely touches of lace and chiffon that, handled differently, could be quite lovely for brunch with grandmother or a trip to the museum. Just because your daughter likes the clothes doesn’t necessarily mean that one needs to start sitting on the front porch polishing the shot gun.

But, while there is a lovely maxi dress with a beautiful red floral print, and some darling white sweaters with touches of lace, there’s also the camo jackets, very short denim shorts, and a couple of dresses whose neckline plunges deep enough to make everyone uncomfortable. Add a knit cap and aviator sunglasses to the look and one quickly realizes that this little girl is growing up quickly and beginning to explore exactly who she is.

Anna Molinari has always been very much in touch with her audience and knows who they are and what they’re experiencing. This Blugirl collection is very different from previous seasons, but it’s not off track at all. Little sister isn’t sitting in her room having tea parties any more. She’s into metal and ready to rock.

This is what makes parents go gray.

Photo credit: Regis Colin Berthelier

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