MFW: GUCCI S/S 2015

Frida Giannini seems to be in a blue mood this season, with occasional splashes of gold and green. And red. And yellow. Of course, black and white. Yeah, all the colors are there, just not all at the same time. This is a very neat, clean lined, pressed, and precisely styled collection from Gucci for spring/summer 2015. Start saving your nickles and dimes, though, because you’re going to want at least one of these looks in your wardrobe next spring.

Spring is a time to be sexy, for sure, and Frida gives us that with plenty of plunging necklines, laser-cut lace, and oversized lace-ups. There’s just enough of a 70s vibe to recognize that it’s a 70s vibe, but the commitment to that look is shallow. We still see the A-line mini, boxy admiral’s jackets (gotta love those gold embelishments), and breezy, light tunic dresses and those all speak in some way to that more bohemian feel. Yet, at the same time, Frida gives us waisted dresses with floral prints and a very large number of sequins. Silk pajamas (not actually meant to be worn to bed). Super-crips whites. Wrap tops. Layered lace.

When all viewed together, as a collection, yes, one can easily see the 70s influences. Looking at the pieces on their own, though, and it’s a little less obvious. What really works are the denim pieces, though having rolled up jeans with hems that hit almost mid-calf is a look that may or may not take off terribly well. Note that there are two-inch cuffs, or in some cases pseudo-cuffs, on almost all the pants. That rolled-up look really is a strong trend for this season. Over-sized lacing works well, too.

What may not work quite so well, at least for the American market, is all the suede and leather, which are particularly Italian trademarks. While the brushed suede looks good, especially in emerald green, it really is heavy in climates where the humidity is a factor. If one lives in the Midwest, South, Southwest, or Philadelphia, the suede is going to create some considerable perspiration issues, and you know that’s not going to smell all that pleasant. The full leather pieces fare even worse. While the heavy fabrics all look good, they lack any serious practicality for most of the continental U.S.

Prints are bright, colorful, and full of motion and look especially good on the tunic dresses. Knits, the few places they occur, are extremely well utilized and give one a very polished and professional look, which we’ve not seen in any quantity so far this season.

Don’t even get me started on the fur; it’s an Italian thing. Let it go at that.

Full of spirit and channeling a bohemian tone, the Gucci spring/summer collection is very attractive to see, but may just be too heavy to actually wear, which is sad. Such great looks really could be more appropriate for the season and the environment. Maybe Frida is thinking for the early Spring. We’ll see if there are any fabric changes once the collection hits production.

Photo credit: Guillame Roujas

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