MFW: FAUSTO PUGLISI S/S 2015

Spots. Everywhere. I’m seeing spots now and I fear that I may still be seeing spots tomorrow. There are just so very, very many spots in this spring/summer collection that one might almost begin to feel a bit disoriented after viewing the entire collection, which is exactly what we’ve just done. To be fare, there are some other geometric shapes and patterns in this print-centric collection from Fausto Puglisi, but it’s the spots that play with one’s eyes over and over.

This is also a very black and white collection. We are well into the presentation before he introduces a burst of burnt orange. I’m rather glad he went with a slightly subdued version of the color. Had he chosen anything brighter we might have gone blind from the contrast. He works metallic gold in with the orange, and there’s one very out-of-place gold ensemble, a zipped up moto jacket and short A-line skirt, that just doesn’t jive with anything else around it. He doesn’t stay with that brightness long, though, before fading off into more hushed tones of blues and greens.

Silhouettes are rather relaxed, except for the skin-tight leggings Fausto puts under a few pieces early in the collection. A handful of very small crop tops are necessarily fitted, but overall Puglisi needs the room in the extra fabric so that the fabric doesn’t lose integrity once he begins punching holes in everything. You see, it’s not enough to just have printed spots on his designs. Fausto Puglisi cuts more holes in his fabric than Charlie Brown’s ghost costume (and if you don’t understand that reference, you need to see It’s The Great Pumpkin, Charlie Brown when it comes on this season). There are some fantastically long knit sweaters and the full length coats are pretty cool as well.

Fausto refers to this collection as one of Suburban Gladiators, and I can see some gladiator influence in some of the short leather paneled skirts, and the sun design is definitely one pulled from antiquity. He loses me, though, as to how that translates into all the spots and the punched holes. Perhaps I’m missing something.

This is an interesting collection, to be sure. The spots and the graphic designs work the larger portion of the time and when they work they are stunning pieces. There is a lot here, especially knits, that I really like, What doesn’t work, though, is the gold metallic (it’s not really lamè), especially when he punches large oval holes in it. I’m finding it difficult to imagine how  the look is supposed to be attractive and, let’s be honest, it’s going to leave some funky tan spots if one wears it out in the sun.

Fausto Publisi knows graphic prints and patterns and does them well. I’m just anxious to stop seeing the spots.

Photo credit: Marcus Tondo and Guillame Roujas

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